After leaving Pitcairn Island in our wake, we sailed to Tahiti, which is the largest island of French Polynesia and home to the capital city of Papeete, where we docked. Papeete is a bustling large city, in contrast to the rest of the island which is fairly underdeveloped. The tropical climate here makes everything grow like its on steroids. Enormous flowers, vines, trees, fruits. Leaves are the size of me! The air is sweet-scented and briny all at the same time.
We rented a car for the day and made our way around the French-speaking island to explore the mountainous and majestic scenery, beaches, great parks, natural blow holes and marinas. And did I mention French style bakeries? There is absolutely nothing better than a piping hot, crusty French baguette right out of the oven for the perfect sandwich! As we were there on a Saturday, the weekend for locals there is just the same as anywhere; home owners cutting their grass, families having picnics in their numerous parks, kids and dogs playing along the shore. Peaceful people. Lovely scenery. Wonderful way of life.
The following morning, Moorea was supposed to be our next stop. But inclement weather had kicked up, forcing our Captain to make the decision to bypass the island. The harbor was exposed to the 35-40 knots of wind and low visibility due to sideways rain. So, onward to Bora Bora.
We found safe harbor in Vaitape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia Once ashore, we hired a panga-style boat to take us around the circumference of the entire island within the reef-fringed lagoon. A father and his 2 sons; ages 9 and 13, who also entertained us with local songs, ukelele and bongo drums. Bora Bora’s crystal clear, warm emerald waters offered endless opportunities for snorkeling. Each lagoon served a fantastic variety of beautiful corals, tropical fish and psycodelicly colored giant clams. We snorkeled 4 locations, including one spot where we fed sting rays (one was even pregnant!) and lemon sharks. Once again on shore, we visited the infamous bar, Bloody Mary’s, which was disappointingly very dark inside, so we continued on down the beach to another establishment for icy cold beers and awe-inspiring views. Lots of the ships’ crew were also indulging in the sun, sand and surf. Back aboard, the ship hosted a sunset sailaway on the aft pool deck. Everyone enjoyed Happy Hour and Appetizers as we passed by idyllic motos (islets) bathed in crystalline waters.
We crossed the International Date Line at 19◦59.5’S / 170◦ 11.3’ W. It is the imaginary line on the Earth that separates two consecutive calendar days. This is the date in the Eastern hemisphere (to the left of the line) which is always one day ahead of the date in the Western hemisphere. Without the International Date Line, travelers going westward would discover that when they returned home, one day more than they thought would have passed even though they had kept careful tally of the days. Fun Fact: This first happened to Magellan’s crew after the first circumnavigation of the globe. Likewise, a person traveling eastward would find one few days had passes, as happened to Phileas Fogg in “Around the World in Eighty Days” by Jules Verne.
Unique in the South Pacific is the fact that Tonga is the only country in the region that was never colonized. Consisting of 176 islands, Tonga has a history dating back over 3,000 years, and the monarchy has been in place for around 1,000 years. I guess it’s good to be the King here!! We spent the morning on Nuku’alofa scoping out the easily-walkable capital city and it’s busy Saturday marketplace. Lots of fascinating wares for sale; whether exotic fruits and vegetables, or handmade curios and arts. They make “tapa” cloth from the bark of trees, then use paint made from mulberry and mangrove trees to create beautiful artwork, mostly using geometric styles. In the afternoon, we hired a very jovial, friendly driver to tour us around the island. He imparted many local customs, family life, histories, botanical and wildlife knowledge. For instance, their fruit bats called “flying foxes”. Fairly large and easily visible hanging in the trees awaiting dusk. We also had the opportunity to snorkel a deserted beach. Only the 3 of us and a small group of locals who were assembled there for a baptism. By the time our driver dropped us back to the pier, we were friends for life. Many hugs. He certainly epitomized Tonga’s nickname: “the Friendly Islands”.
During our passage from Tonga to New Zealand, we experienced the foulest weather so far. Approximately 300 miles north of New Zealand we ran into the remnants of Cyclone Oma. The ship registered 73 knots of apparent wind (57 knots true wind) as we headed towards our destination. (FYI knots are 15% greater than miles per hour.) Motion on the ship was noticeable, as passengers staggered down the corridors like drunken sailors. There was also sparse attendance at the Dining Room that evening for dinner, as well as the toppling several dinner platters to the floor. Credit needs to be given to our experienced dining staff who managed to balance and deliver heavy, cumbersome dishes from kitchen to table. Most said nonchalantly, that they’d seen worse. After dinner, everyone retreated to their cabins. With our cabin located in the bow, there was quite a lot of noise as the large waves and strong winds pounded on the hull throughout the night. By morning winds had subsided slightly and our course heading modified, allowing a more comfortable ride. Still, the sea and it’s many hues of blue were stunning to watch roll by for the next few days.
Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city with around 1 million people is home to over a quarter of all New Zealanders. After all the small islands of the South Pacific, it feels like we’re back in modern civilization. And what a cosmopolitan city it is! We opt to explore the vast city by using a Hop On/Hop Off Bus that will transport us far east and west points of the city, but also provides us a 15-minute ferry across the harbor to lovely Devonport, where we start our day.
Devonport is a beautiful sea-side suburb with unsurpassed views of Auckland, yet has a small village-like charm, complete with lots of gingerbread trim on most of the cottages. The cooler temperatures in the 70’s here are perfect for hiking around. We climb up to Mount Victoria for a fantastic 360-degree view, including Auckland to the south and her two large harbors. Once finished exploring Devonport, we join the morning ferry commuter traffic back over to Auckland. We tour through Bastion Point, Parnell, Auckland Domain, Kingsland and then walk most of the inner city to the Sky Tower to view the panoramic scene from 630 feet elevation. We are truly impressed with how clean the city is, and how friendly and engaging the people are here!
Auckland has earned its nickname as the “City of Sails”, due in part to the immense amount of boats here (10% of the city population own a boat), as well as the America’s Cup sailing races. So it’s no surprise that we visit the New Zealand Maritime Museum, with displays spanning the first Polynesians to arrive in NZ, through their present day yachting success. Quite a treat for us to see some of the America’s Cup sailboats!
The m.s. Amsterdam departs Auckland, heading 158 miles further south on the north island of New Zealand. This area enjoys one of the highest proportions of sunny days in New Zealand, though still only in the mid 70’s during our visit. We arrive in Tauranga, and its fantastic suburb beach town called “The Mount”, short for Mount Maunganui. The Mount really reminded us of a mini-version of our beloved Virginia Beach. Great vibe, friendly people, eateries, galleries, shops along quaint boardwalk and expensive homes. Then add in the New Zealand features of natural hot pools, a blow hole and a steep 800 ft peak to climb, complete with sheep. And these energetic Kiwi’s are certainly a hearty bunch, never backing down from a challenge. Young fellows (and not-so-young) are running up the winding path, and young mothers have their two kids on their backs! The kiwi’s are a Work Hard/Play Hard bunch. And friendly and sincere enough to talk your ear off. About anything.
The main city of Tauranga is located on the western part of the Bay of Plenty. Captain Cook sailed into this bay in 1769 and found numerous settlements of friendly natives here. Today it serves as a big commercial port with a business district and lots of shopping opportunities. Most of our time was spent in The Mount area, so we just did a quick look around Tauranga.
Another 500 miles south on the south side of the North Island, we come to Wellington, New Zealand. This capital city has been called a lot of things, all good. Wellington takes part in friendly rivalry with larger Auckland. The city itself is hemmed in by its magnificent harbor, with buildings marching up steep hills. It’s a lively city with lots to see and do. It’s a center for culture and the arts with tons of restaurants, cafes, nightlife, as well as home to the country’s government and national treasures. Three buildings form New Zealand’s parliamentary complex, the newest completed in 1980 is called the Beehive and looks just like that. We thoroughly walked the city, and rode the red Wellington Cable Car (a funicular, really) from Lambton Quay to the rim of the city and Botanic Gardens. We’re not really crazy about Botanic Gardens, but I have to admit that this one is spectacular. And a free green space for all to enjoy. The park has 61 acres of ponds, sculptures and flora spreads across the hillside with gorgeous views above central Wellington and is a big draw for residents and tourists alike.
And our last stop in New Zealand was Picton, located on the northern-most point of the South Island. It was easy to explore this small town of 3,000 people. A sleepy sea-side town, the area is one of their most productive mussel-farming areas. Home of the Green-Lipped Mussels…the size of which send many folks scampering. But I loved them! Washed down with a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (also famous here), I was in heaven. Picton is also where we saw the most unusual sea star (aka starfish) in the clear harbor waters. (See photo). As a popular ferry port, it connects the North and South Islands of New Zealand. What makes up the most vehicles on the ferries? RV’s! Hundreds of them roll on and off each ferry. It’s one of New Zealand’s biggest recreation and tourist activity in general. Anything from a VW-bus filled with college students, to Class A’s filled with families or couples. In fact, New Zealand is such a gracious host to RV-ers that most cities and towns offer free parking specific to RV’s, along with free wi-fi. We asked some of the RV-ers about rental costs. They replied that for a small mini-van style, up to a small camper size, it costs between $2,500 – 5,000 a month. What a great way to tour the country.
By the way, we also learned that New Zealand offers free health care to non-New Zealand travelers. If you have an accident or are injured here New Zealand will pay for your care. That’s some rare hospitality-
We absolutely can’t say enough great things about New Zealand! With it’s stunning scenery (Lord of the Rings was filmed here), engaging people, spotlessly clean cities, wonderful wines and tasty lamb and cheeses. Another trip to New Zealand someday is a must. –maybe in an RV!
Onward 1,217 miles westward to Sydney, Australia, where we have a 2-day stop in this big city. Known as the Harbour City, Sydney is the largest, oldest and most cosmopolitan city in Australia, with an enviable reputation as one of the worlds most beautiful and livable cities. History, nature, culture, art, fashion, cuisine and design, set next to miles of ocean coastline and sandy surf beaches. Also home to two of the most iconic structures on the planet: Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. And don’t forget its opals, koalas and kangaroos. We’re also back to hot and humid tropical temperatures.
We abandoned our Hop On/Off bus when we came to a screaming halt in the congested traffic of morning rush hour. Walking was faster, and we logged in 9.8 miles on this day. And walking really gives you a chance to soak it all in. From the sugar sands of Bondi Beach, through its well-heeled neighborhoods, Yacht Clubs and private schools, to the shopping districts of the Queen Victoria Building, Chinatown and Paddy Market, the Sydney Opera House and the surrounding gardens and of course, Darling Harbour and its Fish Market.
Whenever leaving a port, the ship hosts a festive “Sailaway” reception, typically on the aft pool deck, and the ship is dressed with her ships flags. I’m sure that no other departure will ever compare to the magical sailaway we experienced leaving Sydney with the silhouettes of the Opera House, Bridge and city against a most spectacular sunset.
Townsville in New South Wales, Australia has an average of 320 days of sunshine a year and is a popular tourist destination. It’s a medium sized town with the typical shopping areas and museums. The Strand is a waterfront esplanade that runs through the city, complete with a free public waterpark in the center. It was packed with families and picnics. And magpies. As well as posted signs warning that the magpie season was in full force and that they can be aggressive. There were also numerous large, black parrots (same size as macaws) that were boisterously chattering in the almond trees. A few miles across the bay lies Magnetic Island. Folklore has it that Captain Cook’s compasses would not work here, so he named it Magnetic Island, but why should we let facts ruin a good story.
Located in Queensland, Cairns (pronounced “cans”) has lush rain forests that run all the way down to the sea. This is where many depart to go out to the Great Barrier Reef (GBR). While the allure of jewel-toned fishes and giant, coral-encrusted clams may seem delightful, the GBR also has so MANY dangerous critters in the water. Salt water crocodiles, great white sharks, box jellyfish, blue-ringed octopus, cone shells, water moccasins —all of which can KILL you! Unfortunately, we’re here during the peak of box jellyfish season. Full wetsuits (including hood and gloves) are mandatory. Even the locals don’t get in the water, despite the clearly designated and netted swimming areas at public beaches. It was very odd to see these gorgeous beaches absolutely vacant on a weekend. We’re usually pretty gutsy, but must say that Australian waters gave us the willies. So we opted for their fantastic Cairns Aquarium, that might even rival the Georgia Aquarium. The perfect solution for the rainy day that it was. By the time the weather cleared in the afternoon, we had made ourselves at home using the new, recently opened Rally’s Resort. We met some very friendly Aussies over poolside drinks. Great hospitality!
Leaving Cairns, we head northwest, entering the Torres Strait on our way to Darwin, Australia. The Torres Strait lies between Australia and New Guinea. Although it’s an important international sea lane, it is very shallow (21 to 45 feet water depth) with a maze of reefs, islands and strong currents, which makes it hazardous to navigate. Therefore, it is compulsory for vessels to have a Great Barrier Reef pilot aboard. The pilot came aboard in Townsville to also aid in navigation through the GBR waters of Cairns. He hosted a few very interesting talks and Q&A sessions. We learned a great deal about the experiences and lifestyle of a GBR Pilot, including their special skill of jumping (literally) from one vessel to another in sometimes big seas.
Darwin, Northern Territory – This is the most hot and humid place in Australia. At 7am, it was 85 degrees and humidity registered at 95%. We were invited by the ships Restaurant Operations Manager to join some of his officers and crew in a fishing excursion. Sixteen of us collectively caught 150 pounds (cleaned) of fish. Probably 400 pounds before cleaning. Tom caught 2 of the 16 black jewfish (the boats limit). Additional catches included sea salmon, rock fish and snapper. All the MANY juvenile sharks (bull and blacktip) we caught were thrown back in. One adult shark was also caught, but due to size, weight and safety, the line was cut purposely to allow its getaway. The crewmen of the fishing boat estimated it was a 300 kilo shark, typical in these waters. Back ashore, we brought the cleaned fish to our cruise ship’s chefs, who prepared a big feast for the entire crew. In addition, a fine dinner for the rest of the 9 who fished; the three boat officers (Restaurant Ops Mgr, Food & Beverage Mgr, Chief Engineer and the 3 passenger couples. It was a magnificent dinner!
The m.s. Amsterdam now turns her course northwest to Indonesia. Our first stop will be the infamous Komodo Island. More on that in our next chapter!
“There are no FOREIGN lands. It is the TRAVELER only who is foreign.” -Cherkasy
Life in Nautical Miles 