2023 m.s. Zuiderdam – Leg 1: Ft. Lauderdale thru Panama Canal

The bolt of lightning that struck the ship along with the simultaneous clap of thunder sounded like an explosion.  It was a direct hit to the M.S. Zuiderdam.  Within 15 minutes, the Captain and crew announced that the assessed damage was limited to a redundant radio antenna, as well as a shattered windowpane in the roof of the pool lanai.  We had just moored in Fuerte Amador, having completed our day-long, northwestward transit of the Panama Canal.  After a pristine day of scenic cruising, a strong, isolated weather front moved through swiftly, leaving its mark on the Zuiderdam. 

But I should begin from the start of our voyage.  On January 3^rd, Tom and I boarded Holland America Line’s ship, the M. S. Zuiderdam, for a 128-day circumnavigation of the world.  The itinerary takes us through the Panama Canal, South Pacific islands, New Zealand and Australia, then follows the South and West African coastline northward to Morocco, into the Mediterranean and European coast before turning east towards the Azores, back across the Atlantic and returning to Ft. Lauderdale May 3^rd.   A dizzying itinerary of 30 countries and 61 ports (with 7 overnight ports), traveling almost 35,000 nautical miles before reaching U.S. soil once again. 

Built in 2002, the Zuiderdam is considered one of Holland America’s smaller ships, at 936 feet long, 105.8 feet wide and can carry almost 1,964 guests. The good news for us is that there will only be about 1,400 guests aboard and about 700 crew. 

After departing Fort Lauderdale, our first port of call was Falmouth, Jamaica, which lies on the north coast between Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.   This historical, gritty working port reaches back from the by-gone days of sugar plantations.   This small town was bustling on a Thursday morning, despite the drizzle.  We strolled past the manicured cruise ship pier, past the locals hawking tours on the perimeter and finally, into the streets of the ‘real’ town, where aromas of jerk chicken cooking on wood fires mingled among the ganja smoke in the humid air.   We strolled past simple wooden structures of humble homes, schools and churches.   We noticed a man with bucket up in a tree, picking Jamaican apples.  The woman across the street smoking a joint, offered us one (an apple, not a joint).  We declined her friendly offer. 

One sea day of travel brought us to Puerto Limon, on the east coast of Costa Rica.  It’s the seventh largest city, with a population of 55,000, whose community traces its roots to Italian, Jamaican and Chinese laborers who worked on a late nineteenth-century railroad project that connected San Jose to Puerto Limon. 

Despite the suburban shoreline, we found some wildlife hanging out in the trees in Vargas Park; a mom, dad and baby sloth, as well as a pair of owls. 

A bit further into town, the Saturday open-air Market was in full force and locals were going about their shopping; fresh fish being cleaned and cut on the street, fruit and vegetable stands (including breadfruit shown below), leather goods, backpack vendors, shoes, etc. 

We brushed off our rusty Spanish enough to find a small beach umbrella that would come in handy for the rest of our trip.  It’s always fun to have a treasure hunt in mind when going ashore and it gives us good fodder amongst the locals.  Yes, I have the Google Translator app loaded on my phone, but our Charades and Pictionary talents are much more enjoyable for both sides and leaves us all laughing. Upon our return to the ship, Tom set up his new umbrella by the aft deck pool and was immediately envied by other passengers, who are seeking lounge chair shade.  Apparently, the ship is expecting their shipment of new umbrellas sometime during our voyage, but no one could say when.  Tom being Tom, took matters into his own hands. 

Onward to the Panama Canal transit. We were awake early and stationed ourselves in “The Crows Nest” observation deck for prime viewing of the day-long transit that would take us beneath bridges, through winding channels, locks and lakes of this 50-mile engineering marvel. 

To begin, we pass beneath the Atlantic Bridge (completed in 2019), which spans the Atlantic entrance to the canal.  Then onto the Gatun Locks; three sets of double-lock chambers bring hulking ships almost 100 feet above the water, from the Caribbean Sea into the man-made Gatun Lake.   The lake encompasses 166 square miles and the surface sits at an elevation around 85 feet above sea level. 

From there, it’s through the Culebra Cut, an excavated gorge stretching more than 8 miles across the Continental Divide.  We are then lowered about 30 feet in the Pedro Miguel Locks, transit the small body of Miraflores Lake before descending another 54 feet in the Miraflores Locks. 

And lastly, we pass beneath the enormous Bridge of the Americas, that was completed in 1962 at a cost of $20 million. At 5,425 feet long (almost a mile), the bridge is a key part of the Pan-American highway. 

It’s late in the afternoon when the Zuiderdam finally moors in Fuerte Amador for the night.  The weather taking a swift turn, and the strong front brings driving rain, thunder and lightning that I described at the beginning of this post.  We’re all content to save exploration of Panama City for morning. 

The Zuiderdam now floats on Pacific waters, and we will set a WSW course for the Marquesas Islands, an 8-day crossing.   Stay tuned.