After the arid heat of the Middle Eastern deserts, we’ve arrived to cooler temperatures in the Mediterranean Sea, now only in the 60’s. A dramatic change in climate, cultures, food, styles and slightly improved internet! And we have once again returned to legible alphabets.
Naples, Italy: Situated on the coast of one of the most beautiful bays in Italy, with Mt. Vesuvius standing majestically in the distance. We explored the narrow cobblestone streets filled with thousands of pizza shops, florists, vegetable, fruit, meat and seafood markets. No visit would be complete without enjoying a margherita pizza from its birthplace! Best pizza EVER-
Barcelona, Spain: What a beautiful city in which to wander! LaBouqeria, their bustling open-air marketplace brimming with fruits, vegetables, seafood, meats all beautifully displayed. Including whole, dry-cured serrano ham … butchers shaving wonderfully thin slices directly off the leg bone (hoof still attached!). LaRambla is a vast tree-lined boulevard in constant motion, filled with street artists, vendors, cafes, stores. A stroll through The Palace Hotel, a boutique hotel original, was noteworthy. And other beautiful architecture, especially Gaudi, can be seen throughout the city. I think I’ve taken the most photos of buildings in this city! Gaudi’s most impressive work is the famous spectacle of the Sagrada Familia Cathedral, a work of continual construction. We’re told it might be completed in the next 10 years. Several Cappuccinos, bocas and vino rosas kept today’s 8.6 mile walk fueled. (Note to Mark S and Jim G: “It’s the Barcelona!” rang in my ears all day-)
Cadiz, Spain – A wonderful surprise. Small, old town. Our ship docked at 7am (which we were told is still considered the middle of the night here). Began roaming the charming but deserted streets at 8:30am, giving us wonderfully unobstructed photos of the plazas, cathedrals, neighborhoods, seaside promenade, gardens and parks. Tom was attacked by a goose. By 1pm we had exhausted our walkabout and took a seat at one of the many outdoor cafes lining the cobblestone streets for a cold beer and a Bocadillo de Jamon Serrano. Spain’s Serrano ham is truly fantastic.
The evening of leaving Cadiz, I saw a most unusual entrée featured on the Dining Room menu. A regionally inspired dish: “Spanish Tomato Braised Cow Tongue – white wine, tomato, carrot, onion, bell pepper, served with yellow rice and sautéed vegetables”. Yes, I actually ordered it. Yes, I actually ate it. Yes, I actually enjoyed it. It was delicious. As they the old adage says, “When in Rome…. I mean, Spain!”
Lisbon, Portugal – At 8am, we’re up in the Crow’s Nest to listen and watch the scenic “sail-in” up the Tagus River, as our Destination Guide, Ian, narrates some of the highlights and sights. Being Easter Sunday, most of Lisbon will be closed, but it gives us the freedom to meander without crowds. Cafés were open and offered their popular custard tarts. Lisbon is older than London, Paris and even Rome by hundreds of years, so lots of history. A stark mixture between ancient and modern architecture. The traditional Portuguese melancholy music called Fado, can be heard in the neighborhood streets. A Hop On/Off bus helped us to see this sizeable city in short order. And Tiles. Everywhere! The Portuguese certainly had a way with tile artistry. They also have the best ingredients we’ve ever experienced in a rustic ham and cheese sandwich! Serrano ham and a super soft, gooey sheep cheese, scooped right out of its rind. And sangria to wash it all down.
Porto, Portugal – We actually docked in a small sea port called Leixoes, but took a local bus into neighboring Porto. As its namesake suggests, this is the mecca of Port Wine. But to get to the port district, we have a wonderful trek though the center of town and oldest church that looks more like a castle. Crumbling ruins stand in between refurbished townhouses.
We docked in Cherbourg, France and traveled by bus to Normandy about 1.5 hours away. The overcast skies and damp chill in the air set the appropriately somber mood for our visit to Omaha Beach. On June 6, 1944, 160,000 Allied soldiers assaulted a 50-mile stretch of the Normandy coast of France. The Allied armada was composed of 700 warships and 2500 landing craft. In the first six days, 326,000 men, 54,000 vehicles and 104,000 tons of material came ashore. During our visit, the tide was out and we could walk out on the broad expanse that what was known as Bloody Beach. The quietness was so alien to what it must have been that desperate day. Envisioning the enormity of it, made you shiver. The memorial stands resolutely in the sand to remind us of their great sacrifice. A few miles away, we also visited the American Cemetery, established by the US. It was quite moving to walk amongst the thousands of white marble crosses in the cemetery, as well as the Memorial to the Unknown. Lastly, we spent time in a Museum that included a private collection of a local farmer who had recovered many artifacts. For me personally, I felt a deep sorrow for both sides, as my German ancestors had also fought in this forsaken war. On the rainy return drive, we passed thousands of acres of flowering canola fields in bright yellow, that provided a cheery contrast to the day.
Brugge, Belgium – A quick 15 minute train ride from the ships port, and we arrive in this medieval city. The beautifully preserved city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The notable view of the 83-meter high Belfry, colorful houses and canal is the most photographed spot in Bruges. Beyond, is the enchanting Markt Square with all their horse drawn carriages—it’s like time has stood still. Vast stone plazas with majestic architecture and dotted with statues. Wisteria blooming everywhere. And Hands Down: the Belgians have the best cappuccinos and beer. For our mid-morning break, we followed warm aromas to a lovely coffee shop and ordered a Belgium cappuccino. It was garnished with a healthy dollop of whipped cream and dutifully accompanied by a small butter cookie. In the afternoon, we stumbled upon a restaurant/pub that had more than a thousand beers displayed in glass case. As you would expect, we savored a creamy Chimay on the outside patio overlooking canal. It’s a good thing we are walking anywhere from 7 to 10 miles a day to keep the pounds at bay!
Amsterdam, Netherlands – One of our favorite cities to explore. From the miles of boats on canals, gazillions of bicycles, leaning row houses, Red Light District, and THE home of the tulip which were all in the height of bloom. And because the m.s. Amsterdam has sailed into her namesake port, we were treated to a special surprise: a private, after-hours event at the famous Rijks Museum, complete with live music, refreshments and desserts, all while roaming a Rembrandt collection; 22 paintings, 60 drawings and 300 engravings all by the master himself. Also works by Van Gogh, Vermeer and others. The CEO of Holland America Lines also joined us at the museum, as well as several days aboard. It was a big to-do!
Copenhagen is the capital and most populous city of Denmark. Scenic cruising begins at 6:30 am, as we make our approach and dock at the port of Langelinie. Kastellet, a well-preserved (star-shaped) fortress built in the 17th century greets us, as does the Little Mermaid statue based on fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen, sits along the waterfront. A bit further is the headquarter offices of goliath shipping company, Maersk. The extravagant Tivoli Gardens amusement park seems strange to be positioned in the middle of downtown, and City Hall with an ornate brick exterior and bell tower that dates back to 1905. Picturesque Nyhaven, is the canal district lined with brightly colored houses and historical wooden ships. Stroget Street offers modern shopping (including a fun Lego store), street entertainers and musicians. But the best exploration here was their open-face sandwiches which were creative in taste and colossal in size.
Oslo, Norway – Shortlybefore sunrise, the m.s. Amsterdam turns into the fjord that will bring us to Oslo in 3.5 hours. During that time, we may watch and listen to the narrated scenic cruising while up in the “Crows Nest”, the upper deck lounge on the ship. Ian, the ships Destination Guide, always does a terrific job in delivering information, history and best tips for all our ports in a humorous and interesting way. This capital city mixes old and new very well, since both were fairly austere in style. Such as the waterfront Opera House that was designed to suggest an iceberg. Weeks ago, we anticipated that Oslo would be one of our coldest ports, but we were blessed with a beautiful Spring day. We headed out for Vigeland Park, where over 200 sculptures stand in a sprawling greenspace. The bronze, granite and cast-iron sculptures were all designed by Gustav Vigeland between 1924 and 1943. The most famous sculptures include The Angry Boy, the Monolith and the Wheel of Life. Pretty cool, as sculptures go! We wound our way through the adjacent neighborhoods in full Spring bloom, and found a nice outdoor café to have some lunch. Norway is one of the most expensive countries, which was evident in the lunch tab of nearly $50 US, for a club sandwich (we split), one coffee and one coke. Onward to The King’s palace and plaza, lively with young families and tourists milling about.
Flam, Norway We sail into the world’s second longest fjord, the Songnefjord, to reach a small village whose name means “little place between steep mountains” and it is just that. A scenic hamlet with sparkling waterfalls, wandering river, snow-capped mountains and green valleys. This is one of two stops on this entire journey, where we’ve been fortunate to have visited previously. So, we opt to go beyond the picturesque town and railway, and venture high up to the Stengastein Overlook for the dizzying, yet breathtaking views. We are rewarded with a fantastic panorama of the fjord and snow-covered mountains in the distance. As well as a heart-stopping mini bus ride there and back, where it’s a narrow, single lane in many places and no guard rails on the switchbacks. Exhilarating day on all counts!
Portree, Isle of Skye, Scotland, UK – A charming small town, with a settlement of only around 2,500 year-round residents. The large harbor provides the perfect home for their salmon farms. Due to a significant tide here, this is a port where we must tender to shore. The ebb tide also provides a fairly good size shallow area that is marked “The Lovely Muck” on the harbor chart. Daily, numerous fishing boats are left to lie on their sides until the water returns. Despite the muck bottom, our ship dragged anchor twice due to high winds that afternoon, unbeknownst to we happy passengers who were ashore. However, with modern technology, our ship simply just hovered it’s position by GPS Hold until we all were back aboard later in the afternoon. We had enough time ashore to wander, shop and taste a few of the local treats. However, their Potato Chips in “Haggis & Cracked Pepper” was not one of them. Entertainment in the main square was a young boy who played the bagpipes for us.
Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK – It is chilly but sunny. We canvased a significant part of the city; the Waterfront, The Fish, City Hall, Albert Clock, Victoria Square and Queens University. We found St. George’s Market, all hustle and bustle, fishmongers, butchers, food stalls and vendors selling everything from jewelry to clothing, trinkets, paintings, you name it. The food stalls always seem to be the most interesting. For example, a sandwich stacked with grilled/butterflied sausage topped with bacon and a sunny side up egg. Another was pasta, with your choice of various sauces and ingredients hand tossed inside a carved-out 24” diameter wheel of parmesan, so you got the benefit of a lot of good, melty cheese. We opted for some piping hot seafood chowder. All that meandering built a thirst and we were pointed to some friendly local pubs where we had an excellent opportunity to pair a perfect pint with good company.
Dublin, Ireland – We begin at Merrion Square and Oscar Wilde’s statue of him sitting on a rock. Being a cool, but nice-weather Sunday, the park is filled with families, strollers, painters and food vendors. We head towards Trinity College to see if we can view The Book of Kells but are met with a very long line and more admission than we cared to pay to see the daily page flip of this 800 AD old book. We will not add to the 500,000 visitors that view it each year. Nevertheless, the campus grounds and bookstore were a wonderful consolation prize. And St. Patrick’s Cathedral was grand…built in 1191 and still the largest church in Ireland. We ambled through distinctly old neighborhoods, including The Liberties, the original settlements on the outskirts of the Kingdom.
What does one do on Cinco de Mayo when in Ireland? Forget the margaritas and go on a Guiness Brewery Tour at its home: the world-famous St. Georges Brewery. A modern museum, restaurant, and rooftop tasting room all housed in an ancient brewery storehouse. It was a tasty and educational visit! The walk back to our bus station included several pit-stops at local pubs, including one that had a rousing impromptu jam session by talented guitar player singing U2 at the top of his lungs, resulting in an unanimous sing-a-long.
Cork, Ireland – Our ship docks in Ringaskiddy, near to the small towns of Cobh, and Cork. We hitch a ride on the shuttle bus going to Cork for a day’s exploration. We canvas the entire town, seeing sites such as St. Finbarr’s Church, Elizabeth Fort, City Hall, Courthouse, the historic Metropole Hotel before our feet started complaining. After extensively walking 6 port days in a row, the treads on our shoes were starting to melt. Where are the best pubs in which to take a break? Ask any university student. We were given very good recommendations.
Bantry, Ireland – Surrounded by the craggy Caha Mountains, Bantry is a small town situated at the head of a very large inlet where vast amounts of mussels and oysters are farmed. This compact and friendly seaside village offered more than we expected. Quaint shops on narrow streets kept us occupied until noon when we landed at The Fish Kitchen for lunch. A heaped pile of steamed mussels, crusty bread and a bowl of the best seafood chowder known to man! For the afternoon, we hiked out a country road to find the Kilnarauane Pillar Stone, a carved monolith dating back to the 8th century that is situated on top of a pastural field overlooking the harbor. The view is exactly what your Irish imagination would be of the green flowing landscape down to the sea! From there, we followed a downhill path, spotted with blooming rhododendrons that have grown wild. We emerged from the woods to the massive ancestral home and prim gardens of the Earls of Bantry. With some rain closing in on us, we finished our walkabout at a cozy pub to spend our last Euros on a few pints. The bartender, Paddy O’Sullivan (naturally), and several colorful locals completed the scene. Simply a quintessential Irish day!
Leaving Bantry late in the afternoon, we weighed anchor for our long 8-day trans-Atlantic return. However, the next morning the ship turned around and began heading back along our original outbound course. Unfortunately, we were missing a female passenger, feared overboard. Her sister reported her missing and after a thorough ship investigation, they surmised that she went overboard around 1:30am. The UK Coast Guard was assisting in the rescue/recovery and advised us after about 4-5 hours of our reverse course (protocol) that we should resume our westward route home, citing that it would be unlikely for our ship to find her and that they would continue the search with their expertise and equipment. We’ve since learned that the woman’s husband had died last year, and she had also developed a medical condition herself. Depressed, her sister encouraged her to come on this trip in order to cheer her up. In the bonding of this 4-month community, it’s difficult to express how extremely sad this was for everyone aboard. The sister distributed a touching note of thanks to everyone for their understanding and support. So heartbreaking.
From there, we still faced an 8-day trans-Atlantic crossing, and encountered an enormous weather depression that spanned the entire ocean. We spent two days in 50-60 mph winds and 20-25 foot waves. The m.s. Amsterdam has a reputation of handling foul weather very well; better than most other ships. But even she was tossed around, and most passengers and crew were uncomfortable. Fortunately, the Captain was able to maneuver south, to minimize the time we would spend in the worst of it.
Pleasant seas resumed 48 hours later and we continued our chase of the sun westward. The energy on board seemed to change onboard, with everyone’s thoughts now on how we were going to repack all of our stuff back up!
The last 3 days also included moving performances by our Indonesian crew, our Filipino crew and lastly a Closing Party that featured fantastic videos and photos of our circumnavigation of the globe. Laughter to tears to laughter; we had clearly bonded as one big wonderfully dysfunctional, but friendly family!
This trip has been a fascinating journey of learning and discovery; geography, cultures, languages, culinary, perspectives, landscapes, and curiosities, as well as having seen many generosities and kindness from strangers. And even in those places you wouldn’t expect, there was dignity and respect. Many of the places and people along our route were so wonderful, pure and almost spiritual; we felt a deep connection. It’s been a humbling experience and we’ve returned feeling very small and humble on this big planet. We Westerners take way too much for granted. I have a whole new appreciation for America. It is, and has always been, great. And a renewed faith and hope that friendship will overcome opposing beliefs for the sake of mankind globally.
Thanks for coming along (in print) with us on this 34,054 nautical mile journey!
“The real voyage of discovery consists of not in seeking new landscapes, but having new eyes”. -Anonymous
Life in Nautical Miles 