2023 m.s. Zuiderdam Leg 6: Africa

While growing up, our household seemed to hold every National Geographic magazine ever printed.  I marveled at all the glorious photos trying to imagine life in all those far-flung, exotic places, especially Africa.  Today, some of those pages came to life.   

Two million people live in Mozambique’s largest city of Maputo, and its complex history has been riddled with strife.  Only as recently as 1975 had Mozambique achieved independence from Portugal. However, their broken system continues to struggle. Literacy is only 40%, unemployment is 80% and poverty is widespread. The average life expectancy in 2018 was 48; today it is still only 55.  It’s also a melting pot of many ethnic groups, resulting in 40 languages that are spoken here, though Portuguese is primary.   And in step with ethnic groups, many religions are also worshipped here. 

Our 2.5-mile guided walking tour educated us on the history, economy, and politics of this city, and we learned that similar struggles are also common across Africa’s 55 countries. It is a continent of ‘haves’ and many more ‘have nots’, and sadly, homelessness is prevalent.

Throughout our walk, desperate street vendors were on foot aggressively hawking leather belts, hats, sunglasses, wooden carvings, bead necklaces and bracelets.   Sidewalk vendors were also set up beneath building overhangs selling used shoes, electronics, boiled eggs…pretty much anything that might earn them some money to feed themselves and family. 

The din of the Central Market was buzzing with vendors ready to haggle over everything from fish, cashews, along with the usual produce. 

The oddest category we’ve ever seen in ANY market anywhere, is hair and wigs.  Yep.  Four entire aisles. Such a paradox.

Amidst the gritty downtown, the Railway Station sits like an unlikely jewel and is recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful stations. 

The nearby ruins of the waterfront Fort built in 1721, protected against all invaders, of which there were many.

Once the walking tour ended at the port, we boarded a shuttle bus that took us up the hill to a different section of the city.  Here we found an entirely different Maputo; the ‘haves’, with beautiful roof-top pool hotels, sidewalk cafes and eateries, office buildings, administration headquarters, etc.    

Highly recommended was a visit the FEIMA Handicraft Fair, a large village of co-op artisans.  Acres of shaded paths threaded throughout batik art canvases, woven baskets and purses, wood carvers, cloth, leather goods, as well as outdoor cafes and colorful umbrellas.  The elevation and trees provided breeze and shade, which was a welcomed relief after the blazing heat of the city.   We took a seat to relax and share a panini along with a local ale, Manaca. 

Mozambique was certainly an interesting introduction to the first of ten ports that we will visit on the African continent. To grasp just how enormous this continent is, please take a moment to let this graphic soak in:

Next up was the sprawling city of Durban, the third most populous city in South Africa, home to 3.7 million people (and 250,000 public buses). Another city of many contrasts. For instance, while it is the largest container port in South Africa, it is also flanked by 75 miles of wide, golden sand beaches which are a wonderful backdrop to the many surfing competitions held here.

Unfortunately, due to its large population of impoverished people, local authority instructed tourists not to walk freely about the city.   Anyone going ashore was urged to either take an excursion or stay aboard.  This was underscored by the fact that city officials provided a free shuttle from the cruise port to an adjacent gated, beachfront family amusement area filled with shops, cafes and attractions.  The 10-minute commute made it was clear that the warnings were solid.  The area was rough; both in neighborhood and its inhabitants. 

We opted for a tour that drove us along the north Durban coastline, which is known for South Africa’s sugar cane.  In winter, they burn the cane before processing; it not only chases snakes out of field, but it burns off the leaves and makes the sugar sweeter.  If you didn’t know you were looking at sugar cane, you could have been driving past acres of Wisconsin corn fields! 

Beyond the agricultural region, the shoreline became rocky, and we passed through the Umhlanga Rocks and eventually, Thompson’s Bay, with its tidal pool and Hole in the Wall.    

About 500 miles southwest of Durban is Port Elizabeth, South Africa. We will use this port to drive inland 1.5 hours to the Kwantu Game Reserve https://kwantu.co.za. The high coastal sand dunes fall away as we rise in elevation, soon replaced by rural pastureland with cattle farms and horses.  The Kwantu Lodge is beautifully appointed and upon arrival, were offered coffee, tea, juice, and water with hot appetizers.  Refreshed, we stroll among the onsite ‘bomas’, large natural areas which are fenced.  Lions, tigers, and cheetah, each in separate bomas.  These are animals being rehabbed before being released back into the wild. 

From here, we boarded safari vehicles to head into the bush for a 2.5-hour game drive on their 11,000 acres.

We came across giraffes, 2 rhinos, elephants and their baby, kudzu, many antelope, hippo, zebras and warthogs.  It is absolutely thrilling to be in their natural environment. 

The savannahs offered such panoramic views.  The almost 70-degree temperature played to our advantage in that the animals were more active and out in the open. 

Returning to the Lodge we were treated to song and dance of the Xhosa natives, (of which I was reluctantly recruited!) with a hearty 3pm buffet that followed. 

It was quite a packed 8-hour tour.  We made it back to the ship for last call aboard for passengers and crew, then headed straight to the sail away celebration already in progress. Thank goodness for a restful sea day before we reach Cape Town.

As we near Cape Town, South Africa, we leave the Indian Ocean and enter the Atlantic Ocean waters.  It’s such a pleasure to have two days to explore this cosmopolitan city with its iconic backdrop. On our first day, we are blessed with mainly clear skies in the mid-70’s…perfect for visiting Table Mountain, one of the seven natural wonders in the world.

We boarded a cable car that rotates 360 degrees during the 5 minutes it takes to reach the top.  At the height of 3,560 feet, the view of Cape Town beneath us is breathtaking.   

We know how lucky we are, as clouds often completely obscure the entire mountain.  Locals refer to that as the Table Cloth.   But today we are treated to only the occasional waterfalling clouds over the ragged cliff edge which in itself is very mesmerizing.   

The view in every direction is quite stunning and we spend more than an hour following the circular pathway of the rocky top with sparse, stubborn vegetation. 

Coming back down from the mountain, our next stop is the exquisite Mount Nelson Hotel. Established in 1899, it is known for its High Tea.  And now we know it too…a 3-course, truly scrumptious and elaborate presentation of savories and sweets.  Oh, and tea!  Their own blends, of course. 

Day 2 in Cape Town finds us riding the Hop On/Hop Off bus for city sightseeing, as well as visiting the 330-year-old Constantia Groot Winery, 330 year old winery.  

After the tour, we enjoy a wonderful lunch on their beautiful grounds overlooking the vineyards.  On the menu, was a delicious local fish called Kingklip, a member of the cusk eel family. 

Leaving Cape Town, the Zuiderdam has now travelled 19,613 nautical miles.

Lüderitz:   This old German town lies on the coast of southern Namibia, founded in 1883 after Adolf Lüderitz bought the land from the local Nama chief Joseph Frederiks. In 1909 after the discovery of diamonds in the area, the town grew very fast. As a result, the large majority of their old buildings look like they were plopped down from the Alps into the desert.

Ashore around 9am, the town of 13,000 people is quiet with almost deserted streets.  It feels surreal, little like an abandoned movie set. 

The few main streets are paved, but side streets are all a sandy dirt.   At the edge of town, we could see the low, one-story primary school and hear children singing; their voices hanging in the hot, dry stillness.   

The Lüderitz sign mocks the more famous Hollywood sign.  Sand and rock are everywhere.

The art nouveau Goerke Haus is open for touring and we marvel at how well-preserved the home and it’s furnishings are.  The founding family lived in the house only 2 years. It is now still owned by the diamond company. 

Back onto the main street that borders the shore, we sought sodas and a noon snack at the Portuguese Fish Restaurant.  While waiting for our grilled oysters, we chatted with a South African couple who were seated at an adjacent table.  She was in Namibia to retrieve a copy of her birth certificate so that she could file for dual citizenship (Namibia and South Africa).   In general, the locals were all extremely friendly and eager to chat; curious about us, our ship.  Lüderitz does not receive many cruise ships and they are quite thrilled to have visitors.  

Heading northward up the Namibian coast, our next port is Walvis Bay. Just beyond the port gates, awaits the throngs of hustling locals. 

Yes, the usual characters are on hand; taxis selling tours, handicraft makers trying to convince you to buy their wood carvings, brightly colored fabric goods, baskets, all spread out on tarps laying on the ground.  But for the first time, we also witnessed bare-breasted African Bush women, tinted head to toe by the reddish clay they use to adorn themselves. 

We quickly push through the expanse of hawkers barking their offers and turn the corner to a quiet street that paralleled the coast.  The neighborhood homes were tidy. 

We pass open sports fields and soon come upon a few seaside restaurants and the Walvis Bay Yacht Club.  

While sipping on a cappuccino there, we strike up a conversation with Theo, the former commodore.   He’s a warm and engaging man, well-traveled with more than 5,000 scuba dives logged.  He is 4^th generation Namibian and offers some directional recommendations for our walkabout.   By the time coffees were finished, our mutual rapport lent to our returning later in the afternoon for a cold beverage. 

But first, we ended up walking through town and a few suburbs until we reached the Mall, where our ships shuttle buses would give us a ride back.  It ended up being a walk of just over 7 miles. 

Luanda, Angola   The ships Cruise Director hosts “Port Talks” a few days in advance of each port we visit.  They are informative presentations that provide map locations of where the ship will be moored, interesting places to visit, how to get around, currency information, expected weather forecast, places to find free Wi-Fi and the like.   But when it came to Luanda, it proved challenging to speak about much else other than personal safety, as well as informing us that we would be shuttled to the patrolled town square where we would remain to shop handicrafts from locals. Speaking of currency, conversion here is $1 USD equals $504.80 Angolan Kwanza.

Beyond the equator northward, we reach Takoradi, Ghana. At first glance some folks may be put off by its harsh environment, however while walking around its massive, circular market, we found the friendliest people. 

For our dear crew members, we purchased about 4 cups of hot peppers and about 3 pounds of avocados for $5.  

And in the the most unlikely Menswear store found there, Tom bought a bow tie, matching pocket square and cufflinks for a whopping $8. Back on the pier, I bought colored string artwork from artist Ajud.

Abidjan, Ivory Coast   Abidjan is “categorized by a high level of industrialization and urbanization” according to Wikipedia. The Zuiderdam pulls into the sprawling port where oil refineries and shanty towns can be seen for miles. 

Our next 3 ports of Africa are very poor, with battered infrastructures, resulting in dangerous living conditions. The exchange rate of the West African Franc is $616.36 to $1.00 USD.

Due to heightened security, the port arranged the opening of a very controlled, claustrophobic crafts market for the passengers.

The art was interesting, but our visit was short.

Arriving to the shores of The Gambia demonstrates another example of the lack of infrastructure here. It comes in the shape of a “power ship” anchored along the city of Banjul’s shoreline. We’ve seen a few of these in this corner of the world. The 36 MW Karadeniz Powership Koray Bey uses low Sulphur Heavy Fuel Oil (HFO) to generate electricity for the area.

We hope that the suddenly mandatory $155 visa per person for our 8-hour stay helps in some way. Some think it was pure extortion. A small local shuttle bus bounced us on dusty, dirty roads to a handicrafts market. Perhaps it was the nearly 100-degree heat and humidity or maybe it was the other conditions present, but most passengers (including us) never got off the shuttle, using it as a means for a quick but poignant tour.

In the morning of our arrival to Dakar, Senegal, the Captain announced that our visit had now been changed to be a service call only, due to Civil unrest. Local and World News coverage reported that local police were using tear gas and stun grenades to disperse political protesters.   No one would be going ashore.  The ship awaited eight 40-foot containers that never arrived. Apparently, authorities were trying to extort money for their arrival. Holland America Line said they would not engage in bribery. Our ship sailed in the morning, for the Canary Islands. More to come…. 

Reflecting on our fascinating time in Africa, I recently read this quote by Mae Chevrette:

“It is in all of us to defy expectations, to go into the world and to be brave, and to want, to need, to hunger for adventures. To embrace the chance and risk so that we may breathe and know what it is to be free.”