Leg 3: Patagonia

Volendam makes her way northward from the Antarctic, slicing through the notorious Drake Passage.  Its reputation runs deep with sailors, as wicked conditions typically rule this latitude, with mountainous seas, screaming winds and fierce currents.  But sometimes not.  We were fortunate to find our 705-mile passage to be moderate, with only two days of 12-15 ft seas and winds hovering around 30 kts.  “Happy Days”, as our Captain would say.   

Our destination is Patagonia, a geographical region in southern South America that spans parts of Argentina and Chile. It includes the southern portion of the Andes mountain range, featuring lakes, fjords, rainforests, and glaciers in the west, with deserts and flatlands toward the east. The region is hemmed by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, and several waterways that connect them, including the Strait of Magellan, the Beagle Channel, and the Drake Passage to the south.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, whose claim to fame is the southernmost city on the planet and often considered “the end of the world”.  It is also the launching point for those going on excursion ships to Antarctic, as well to those flocking here to explore the Andes Mountains and Patagonia. The town of about 82,000 people is a haven of hostels for backpackers and nature enthusiasts. 

The scenery here is hard to beat and once ashore, we headed for the Tierra del Fuego National Park, a massive 4,550 square-mile sanctuary that opened in 1960.  And yet only 3% of this park is open to the public; the rest is used for environmental and scientific studies of this sub-Antarctic forest and coastline along the Beagle Channel.

In addition to the incredible scenery of snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes and the cleanest air you might ever breathe, it is also the very end of the Pan American Highway. Lapataia Bay marks the end of the Highway—an 11,185-mile journey from Alaska.

Ensenada Bay, with lovely views over the Beagle Channel and the Andes Mountains…as well as home to the southernmost Post Office (below).

The Beagle Channel links the Atlanta and Pacific Oceans and is a continuation of the stunning landscape in this region.  Volendam threads her way through the labyrinth of waterways as we pass by 5 glacier runs and many waterfalls.  Being their summer, daylight is from 5am to 11pm, affording an almost endless IMAX experience any direction you look.

As we cross into Chilean waters, I thought you might enjoy a few notable facts about this remarkable country:

• Chile is the world’s longest country, with 4,000 miles of coastline
• Mountains cover 80% of the country.   
• Salmon farming is major industry
• Copper and Lithium producer.
• 200 days of rain/yr. 
• 1/3 of all volcanos in the world are found in Chile.
• About 10,000 earthquakes annually, with about 1,800 reaching a magnitude of 4 or higher each year.

Our next port was Punta Arenas, Chile – the heartland of Patagonia.   A beautiful but blustery 50 degree day begins with a stride against a stiff wind, uphill for a panoramic view of the entire city of 132,000 people.   Adjacent to the lookout, we step into a charming café to warm ourselves with a hot cup of coffee and linger over the view.  

We came upon the Plaza de Armas, where vendors, street performers and tourists made a lively scene.  Other highlights of our walk included visiting the Museo Naval Austral, and the park-like Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun, where mature cypress tree “canyons” have stood against decades of strong winds. 

Our friend Jo told us not to miss “the best hot chocolate she’s ever had” at the Le Chocolatier. She was right! 

Eventually, we gravitated back to the wharf area, where we found a group of friends already sampling local ales. We thoroughly enjoyed our 7-mile walking exploration of this wonderful and clean city. 

Puerto Montt –  is the capital of the Los Lagos region of Chile and known as the gateway to the country’s glacial lakes, volcanic landscapes and surrounding national parks.  A group of 19 of us chartered a bus to explore Puerto Varas, Frutillar & Petrohue Falls.

We headed for Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, a 1-hour drive through countryside that looks a lot like Wisconsin (aside from the volcano!).

A short walk though thickly wooded forest led us to the Petrohue River and its Waterfalls, pouring over volcanic rock. 

The snow-capped cone of Osorno Volcano stands in the distance.  Its last eruption was in 2015, spewing ashes almost 2 miles high! 

Our guide, Ignasio, was a wonderful host and during our roadside break, served us homemade empanadas and local wine. 

From there we head south to Puerto Varas, a 100-year-old German settlement on the shores of Llanquihue Lake, which stretches 22 miles long.  

The German influenced architecture and the distant snow-capped peaks of Mt. Calbuco and Mt. Tronador, make you feel like you’re in Bavaria, rather than Chile.  

The adjacent small town of Frutillar is a lakeside resort town with plenty of artisans and more German charm.     

It was a fantastic day, sharing sights, tastes and memories with friends!

San Antonio, Chile (Valparaiso) –  Volendam docks in the industrial port of San Antonio, the gateway to either Santiago or Valparaiso. We chose the latter.   Our friend Jo arranged a tour for 7 of us, which began with a 1.5-hour drive, passing through industrial areas, countryside and eventually, a panoramic coastal drive to the upscale resort town of Vina del Mar, a suburb of Valparaiso.  Our first stop was the iconic floral clock.  On the steep bluff beyond, stands the Cerro Castillo—summer palace of the Presidents of the Republic.   

From there, we continued to Valparaíso. We began in the lower town, El Plan, near the busy port. Plaza Sotomayor anchors this area, flanked by the imposing Naval Headquarters and the striking Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, a tribute to Chile’s maritime history.

An antique funicular carried us up into Los Cerros, and the hills that define Valparaíso’s character. The city spills dramatically over 42 hills, its narrow lanes lined with an eclectic mix of grand old mansions, weathered homes, and humble shacks.

Every available surface seems to serve as a canvas. Vivid street art and murals splash across walls, stairways, and alleyways.

Our midday stop was a charming little B&B with an intimate garden patio where lunch was served. It felt like a hidden oasis…until it wasn’t.

Unfortunately, there was a wolf among us. As we rose to leave after lunch, two of us realized we were missing personal items. My small pouch—containing my camera, phone, one credit card, and a few small bills—was gone. A fellow passenger’s entire wallet and phone had also disappeared.

I immediately asked Tom to check his Life360 app, which tracks my phone’s location. He showed the map to our waiter, who suddenly exclaimed, “I know where this is!” He grabbed Tom’s phone and dashed out the door, with Tom and our guide close behind.

They tracked the signal to an apartment building a few blocks away. After buzzing several units, someone let them in. Police soon arrived and searched the apartments of residents who agreed to cooperate. Others were either unoccupied or didn’t respond. While Life360 narrowed the signal to that building, it couldn’t pinpoint the exact apartment—and the phone’s ringer was left in silent mode. Despite everyone’s valiant efforts, our belongings had vanished into thin air. Darn it.

Naturally, we immediately canceled the credit cards and shut down my phone. In the end, it’s more of an inconvenience than catastrophe—but I’m still annoyed at myself for letting my guard down for even five minutes. Travel is full of lessons… and this was one of them.

Other than that unfortunate episode, our journey continues to be nothing short of extraordinary. And now, we’re turning our sights toward the next chapter: The South Pacific Islands.