Leg 4: South Pacific Islands

Easter Island –  Mythical, mysterious and exotic, the 900 moai statues on Easter Island (aka Rapa Nui) have stood on this island for centuries and will continue to be a source of wonder for generations to come. 

Our visit this time, was less about the iconic moai and more about the spirit of the island itself. Having previously toured the archaeological sites and explored the national park, we longed for a more inward, local experience. We reconnected with our friends Dani and her Rapa Nui–born husband, Toroko, whom we had met last year, and asked them to help us see their home through a different lens.

We arrived just as the island was recovering from its annual Tapati Rapa Nui Festival, which ended the night before. For two vibrant weeks, the island celebrates its heritage through artistry, sports, music, and friendly competition between two rival “camps”. The winning camp crowns their festival queen who represents the island for the coming year. One of the festival highlights is a parade of handcrafted floats adorned with intricate wood carvings and stone sculptures.

Dani and Toroko introduced us to several local artists in their homes and workshops. We saw firsthand the chisels, the sawdust, the half-finished carvings, and the quiet pride in their work. Some had been creating for two months in anticipation of the festival. It was a privilege to witness not only the finished art, but the process—the patience and devotion that keeps Rapa Nui traditions alive.

Being it a Sunday, we also joined Dani and Toroko to their church service. In South Pacific congregations, singing is not a gentle accompaniment…it is a full-bodied expression of faith. Voices rose strong and unrestrained, filling the small sanctuary.

Though we did not understand a single word of the sermon or the hymns, the music transcended language. It reached us, lifted us, and reminded us that connection is not always about comprehension.  Click below to hear our audio recording.

It was truly wonderful to experience a day in the life of a Rapa Nui!

Pitcairn Island – Officially a British Overseas Territory, though New Zealand appears to be its primary lifeline. Thousands of miles of open ocean surround this tiny 2-by-1-mile island, home to about 45 people. It’s about as remote as it gets.

The island is steep-to, with neither a protected harbor nor any place to land tenders. So instead, the islanders come to us. For several hours, while MS Volendam slowly circumnavigates and hovers offshore, we’re treated to spectacular island views as their longboat made its way alongside and unloads.

About half the population descends from the mutineers of the HMS Bounty, and during this visit we met 22 of them as they came aboard bearing gifts of fresh fish, small pineapples, local produce, and their ubiquitous breadfruit. They also brought beautifully handcrafted items—carved wood, bone, and shell pieces—along with t-shirts, caps, postcards and other keepsakes.

This was our fifth visit to this remarkable island, and some faces have become familiar. Andrew Christian, a seventh-generation grandson of Fletcher Christian, is one of them. Each time, I purchase a wooden bowl or platter from him. He thanks me for my repeat business, but honestly, I’m all too happy to obtain such a unique treasure.

The Mayor of Pitcairn and the Captain of Volendam exchanged commemorative plaques on the main stage, followed by an hour-long presentation from another seventh-generation resident. Her PowerPoint offered a fascinating glimpse into life on a very small island: rainwater collection, homegrown vegetables, abundant fresh seafood, hens for eggs, generators for electricity when needed, and a supply ship that arrives just four times a year. They have one doctor and one nurse. Two years ago, Starlink was installed. There’s a one-house school for primary students; after that, children are sent to New Zealand to continue their education. Life is simple. The people are resourceful and resilient.

Before departing, the entire entourage gathered on stage to sing their favorite hymn in strong, resounding voices, followed by a farewell song that left few dry eyes in the house.

In addition to the $5,000 check Volendam presented to the Pitcairn community, we filled their longboat with supplies—food, toiletries, beverages, even ice cream—before they headed back to their small harbor.

It was an immersive and inspirational six-hour “excursion” to an island we never actually set foot on, and yet, one of the best ever!

Tahiti, French Polynesia At dawn, the Captain deftly maneuvers the Volendam through the narrow cut in the reef, barely wide enough for our beam. Once safely inside the lagoon, she swings to port and settles into her spot along the downtown dock in Papeete. The city is already stirring on this Saturday morning.

The aroma of coffee and freshly baked baguettes hangs in the air as we stroll a few blocks to the Avis Rental Car counter, where our spiffy little Peugeot awaits. Tahiti’s “ring road” makes for an easy 80-mile circumnavigation of this magnificent island. Jagged emerald peaks tumble dramatically to black-sand beaches and sparkling blue seas. It truly feels like heaven on earth.

Beachside parking lots are already filling with local families settling in for a leisurely day off. Volleyball nets are strung, outrigger canoes carried down to the shoreline, and the women unpack enough food to feed an army. It’s joyful, communal, and wonderfully unhurried.

At Faarumai Waterfalls—known locally as Trois Cascades—the three waterfalls are breathtaking, each cascade creating its own cool downdraft of wind. Lush bamboo and flowering vegetation thrive in the constant mist.

We returned to the simple lunch spot we discovered last year—nothing fancy, just a sand floor, toes nearly in the water, and the best tuna tartare you’ve ever tasted.

Our final stop was a visit to the elegant InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, where overwater bungalows, a spectacular pool and beachfront amenities define South Pacific luxury.

With our departure not scheduled until 3 a.m., we had the rare treat of experiencing Papeete by night. At sunset, we rendezvoused with a small group of friends at a rooftop hotel overlooking the harbor, watching the sky melt from gold to indigo as the harbor lights flickered to life.

A perfect day in paradise—morning to night.

Moorea, French Polynesia As if Tahiti could be outdone, its sister island is certainly no shrinking flower! Only 11 miles separate these two idyllic twins, and they share much of the same dramatic topography—jagged green peaks rising sharply from impossibly blue seas.

But instead of touring the mountaintops, we chose to discover what lies beneath the surface.

A shipmate friend arranged a snorkel excursion for twelve of us, and soon we were plunging into crystalline turquoise waters, swimming alongside sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, and what felt like an entire armada of eagle rays gliding gracefully below us.

The prevalent purple-blue coral created a vivid backdrop for expansive patches of healthy staghorn coral, while swaying fingers of anemone sheltered the clownfish. Pacific triggerfish darted past, Moorish idols with their banners trailing, and schools of damselfish shimmered in the shafts of sunlight.

Lunch was at a casual beachside restaurant specializing in fresh tuna, accompanied by one of the most spectacular turquoise panoramas imaginable. It was almost too brilliant to be real.

Bora Bora – Our third stunning port in as many days, and somehow each island continues to raise the bar.

Once again, our merry band of snorkelers climbed aboard a local outrigger-style boat for a circumnavigation of Bora Bora’s inner fringe reef.

Four separate stops, each with its own personality: small reef sharks cruising lazily, graceful rays gliding past, vibrant coral gardens, and dreamy sandy “swimming pools” in waters so turquoise-teal they hardly seemed real.

Here (pronounced Harry), our local guide, not only kept us refreshed with cold beverages but also served up beautiful platters of fresh fruit and vegetables. As if that weren’t enough, he serenaded us with his ukulele while we drifted in paradise.

Yes, we all absorbed a bit too much sun, but the fun never stopped. We returned to the Volendam glowing (in more ways than one), eagerly anticipating cool freshwater showers before gathering again on deck for a festive sail-away into the sunset.

Our next scheduled port was Kingdom of Tonga, some 1,350 miles west…right where a tropical cyclone was brewing. To avoid the storm and its 30-foot waves, our trusty captain announced that MS Volendam would skip Tonga and instead, set a southwesterly course straight for Auckland. So, onward to New Zealand! More adventures to come…

My sincere thanks to all the contributing photographers of this blog:  Brad, Jo, Kathy, Martha, Mel, Patrick and Tom.