Category: Cruising

Sometimes the best travel days are the ones you never planned.

When a developing tropical cyclone cancelled our scheduled stop in Tonga, we suddenly found ourselves with a bonus day in Auckland, New Zealand. With an extra day there, ten of us hopped aboard a half-hour ferry from Auckland, bound for beautiful Waiheke Island.

Our local guide Darren met us at the dock in the small village. The island’s permanent population is only about 10,000, but in season it can swell to 35,000 as vacationing Kiwis flock here for beaches, watersports, and—perhaps most famously—the vineyards.

Roughly 30 boutique wineries are scattered across 36 square miles of rugged, hilly terrain, producing excellent Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

It was a sunny, breezy day in the low 60s as we climbed into Darren’s van and set off along the island’s dramatic coastline. Between scenic overlooks he shared stories of the island’s history and what life is like for locals.

Our afternoon included four winery stops. First was Casita Miro, a delightfully quirky spot with Barcelona influences—whimsical gardens and pathways decorated with colorful mosaic tiles. https://www.casitamiro.co.nz/

Next came Batch Winery, the island’s highest vineyard, with sweeping views over the Hauraki Gulf. We happily sampled their wines while nibbling on generous platters of meats, cheeses and vegetables. https://www.batchwinery.com/

Then on to Postage Stamp Wines, a rustic countryside winery where we relaxed in a humble backyard oasis surrounded by lavender, dahlias, and fruit trees—kefir lime, mandarin and olives. They also keep bees and produce their own honey. https://postagestampwines.co.nz/

Our final stop was the well-known Mudbrick Winery & Restaurant, where beanbag chairs dotted the hillside, inviting visitors to lounge with a glass of wine while taking in the panoramic views. It’s easy to see why this beautiful setting is also a popular wedding venue.  https://mudbrick.co.nz/

Our visit to Waiheke Island was wonderful—and clearly deserving of a longer stay next time.

We ferried back to Auckland around dinner and found pizza along the waterfront, overlooking the marina filled with impressive sailboats and motor yachts. Including Sea Eagle, a 265-foot-long, 3 masted superyacht. We read that it is the world’s largest aluminum sailing yacht (as of 2020). For perspective, the 2 full-size teak Adirondak chairs on the lower aft platform look like dollhouse furnishings!

For Day 2 in Auckland, Tom and I set out to explore on foot. On a cool, breezy morning we headed uphill to Albert Park, and adjacent University of Auckland, where students were returning for the fall semester. They sure do need nicer diploma frames in their bookstore–just saying.

From there we passed the nearby Sky Tower, standing 1,072 feet tall, before continuing on to the historic and upscale Ponsonby district for lunch at a charming café.

Later we wandered back toward the marina and wharf area, buzzing with preparations for the upcoming Auckland Boat Show.

After nearly eight miles on foot, we returned to the ship tired but happy…another memorable day exploring beautiful Auckland. If we hadn’t been so worn out, we might have stayed awake to watch the complete lunar eclipse that evening, as Volendam sailed along the New Zealand coastline northward 177 miles to the Bay of Islands.   

In the stillness of dawn, our ship anchored just offshore of the small towns of Paihia and Russell. For this half-day stop, we ferried less than two miles between the towns to get a feel for each one.

We strolled through farmers markets and artisan craft barns, enjoyed coffee by the water, and stopped for seafood chowder.

Ferries and small boats kept a steady parade moving along the shoreline, giving the towns a constant hum of activity.

The afternoon sailaway was scenic. Volendam passed dozens of sailboats and navigated among small islands and rocky outcroppings before reaching open water. We followed the coastline north to New Zealand’s tip, then turned west for a two-day crossing of the Tasman Sea.

As we ate dinner, we watched the coastline fade behind us and thought ahead to the next stretch of our journey….Australia.

The city lights reflect on the water in Sydney’s 5am darkness, as Volendam glides past the iconic Opera House and ducks beneath the Harbour Bridge enroute to her berth. 

By 8:15am, we had cleared immigration and boarded a shuttle bus from White Bay to Sydney’s city center. Sydney’s public transportation is accessible and clean, making it easy to get around over the next two days by ferry, tram or bus.

Having explored Sydney pretty thoroughly during previous visits, we chose to take a 20-minute ferry to Watson’s Bay. As the seaside town opened for the day, cafes set up umbrellas while seagulls grabbed croissants from plates.  

Taking advantage of the cool morning, we hiked up the upper ridge, enjoying breathtaking views from the cliffs down to the rocks below.

As we followed the trail north, we reached the Hornby Lighthouse, which I’d painted a few years back. The sweeping view featured a Saturday regatta, with dozens of sailboats showing off their colorful spinnakers as they sailed downwind.

When we returned to the town center, we were fortunate to grab the last table right by the water at Doyle’s Restaurant—a well-known spot for fish and chips. We shared a very generous lunch serving before catching the ferry back to Circular Quay.

From there, we took another ferry to Milson’s Point across Sydney Harbor, then walked over the Sydney Bridge, ending up at The Rocks for refreshments and people watching.

That evening, we had dinner on board the Volendam, just as rain showers started to loom in the forecast.

Sydney Day 2:  As periods of rain continued in the forecast, we opted to visit the Sydney Maritime Museum in Darling Harbour.   While the rain held off, we toured the 389-foot destroyer ship HMAS Vampire, and the 295 ft submarine HMAS Onslow, both tied to the docks. 

After window shopping in the historic Queen Victoria Building and a late lunch nearby, we returned to the ship. 

At sunset, Volendam’s horns blast their farewell to Sydney as we sailed out of the Harbor.  Reaching open water, she turned north into 30 knots of wind and several meter swells.   We’ll follow the coastline up for 2 days to Townsville. 

Townsville – Hot and muggy, but with the overnight rain finally moving out, we set off on a six-mile walkabout along The Strand, a beautiful waterfront promenade that stretches along the shoreline.

Along the way, small green parrots and large black cockatoos, all noisily squawked our arrival.

We stopped to chat with a few fishermen casting from the pier. They had seven rods lined up in hopeful anticipation of barramundi, flathead, or even sharks. Unfortunately, there was no action while we were there, but spirits remained high.

Nearby, standing in the water, was the striking The Ocean Siren by Jason deCaires Taylor. The sculpture subtly shifts color based on daily water temperature data, serving as both art installation and a quiet warning about warming seas and the threat of them to Great Barrier Reef corals. My daytime photo is on the left and illuminated version is courtesy of Museum of Underwater Art.

From The Strand, we wandered a few blocks inland through quiet residential streets, admiring the classic Queenslander-style homes with their raised structures and breezy verandas.

From just about anywhere in Townsville, the pink granite Castle Hill dominates the scene.

Lunch brought us into the central business district, where beautiful old architecture surrounded us.

We made our way back to the ship through green parklands, busy marinas, and even a few lively public waterparks—a full and satisfying day in Townsville.

A 200-mile overnight passage further north, we reached Cairns in the Coral Sea.

Having visited Cairns before, we thought we would discover the natural beauty of the Kuranda rainforest. Instead of the popular tourist route involving train rides and cable cars to reach its elevation, we rented a car and drove ourselves. The road wound steadily upward in a series of serpentine turns, eventually delivering us to the charming village of Kuranda.

Set among the trees, the Kuranda markets felt more like a forest hideaway than a shopping area, with artisan stalls, small boutiques, and cafés tucked beneath the canopy.

One highlight was the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary, where we wandered among an impressive collection of butterflies.

From there, we continued north to the upscale seaside village of Palm Cove. Towering melaleuca trees shaded the esplanade, and a light breeze off the water helped take the edge off the tropical heat. Lunch was a delicious nasi goreng, enjoyed at a relaxed pace in this laid-back setting.

Darwin – With a population of about 122,000, Darwin is known as the lightning capital of the world, famously recording over 91,000 strikes in a 24-hour period during a Christmas storm in 2018. Sitting just 10 degrees south of the equator, it’s no surprise the weather is hot and humid.

To make the most of our day, we hopped on a Hop On/Hop Off bus and made several stops, including over an hour at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. The exhibits were varied and fascinating, covering everything from Aboriginal history to science displays and maritime artifacts.

A particularly memorable section detailed the devastation of Cyclone Tracy in 1974.  And there was also a special display honoring “Sweetheart”, a 1700-pound, almost 17-foot saltwater croc that had been attacking aluminum dinghies back in the 1970’s. They estimated that he was between 50-80 years of age.   

The waterfront area is lively, filled with restaurants and anchored by a large man-made lagoon—safe from stingers, crocodiles, and sharks (a reassuring feature in this part of the world!).

Darwin also offers expansive green spaces, parks, and esplanades. In a few areas, we even spotted wallabies lounging in the shade, seemingly unfazed by passing visitors.

We even spotted a pair of owls as we strolled back to the ship. Darwin was an enjoyable visit!

Looking Ahead: Volendam now sets her course for colorful Indonesia, and we’re looking forward to the next chapter of this journey. Stay tuned!

Easter Island –  Mythical, mysterious and exotic, the 900 moai statues on Easter Island (aka Rapa Nui) have stood on this island for centuries and will continue to be a source of wonder for generations to come. 

Our visit this time, was less about the iconic moai and more about the spirit of the island itself. Having previously toured the archaeological sites and explored the national park, we longed for a more inward, local experience. We reconnected with our friends Dani and her Rapa Nui–born husband, Toroko, whom we had met last year, and asked them to help us see their home through a different lens.

We arrived just as the island was recovering from its annual Tapati Rapa Nui Festival, which ended the night before. For two vibrant weeks, the island celebrates its heritage through artistry, sports, music, and friendly competition between two rival “camps”. The winning camp crowns their festival queen who represents the island for the coming year. One of the festival highlights is a parade of handcrafted floats adorned with intricate wood carvings and stone sculptures.

Dani and Toroko introduced us to several local artists in their homes and workshops. We saw firsthand the chisels, the sawdust, the half-finished carvings, and the quiet pride in their work. Some had been creating for two months in anticipation of the festival. It was a privilege to witness not only the finished art, but the process—the patience and devotion that keeps Rapa Nui traditions alive.

Being it a Sunday, we also joined Dani and Toroko to their church service. In South Pacific congregations, singing is not a gentle accompaniment…it is a full-bodied expression of faith. Voices rose strong and unrestrained, filling the small sanctuary.

Though we did not understand a single word of the sermon or the hymns, the music transcended language. It reached us, lifted us, and reminded us that connection is not always about comprehension.  Click below to hear our audio recording.

It was truly wonderful to experience a day in the life of a Rapa Nui!

Pitcairn Island – Officially a British Overseas Territory, though New Zealand appears to be its primary lifeline. Thousands of miles of open ocean surround this tiny 2-by-1-mile island, home to about 45 people. It’s about as remote as it gets.

The island is steep-to, with neither a protected harbor nor any place to land tenders. So instead, the islanders come to us. For several hours, while MS Volendam slowly circumnavigates and hovers offshore, we’re treated to spectacular island views as their longboat made its way alongside and unloads.

About half the population descends from the mutineers of the HMS Bounty, and during this visit we met 22 of them as they came aboard bearing gifts of fresh fish, small pineapples, local produce, and their ubiquitous breadfruit. They also brought beautifully handcrafted items—carved wood, bone, and shell pieces—along with t-shirts, caps, postcards and other keepsakes.

This was our fifth visit to this remarkable island, and some faces have become familiar. Andrew Christian, a seventh-generation grandson of Fletcher Christian, is one of them. Each time, I purchase a wooden bowl or platter from him. He thanks me for my repeat business, but honestly, I’m all too happy to obtain such a unique treasure.

The Mayor of Pitcairn and the Captain of Volendam exchanged commemorative plaques on the main stage, followed by an hour-long presentation from another seventh-generation resident. Her PowerPoint offered a fascinating glimpse into life on a very small island: rainwater collection, homegrown vegetables, abundant fresh seafood, hens for eggs, generators for electricity when needed, and a supply ship that arrives just four times a year. They have one doctor and one nurse. Two years ago, Starlink was installed. There’s a one-house school for primary students; after that, children are sent to New Zealand to continue their education. Life is simple. The people are resourceful and resilient.

Before departing, the entire entourage gathered on stage to sing their favorite hymn in strong, resounding voices, followed by a farewell song that left few dry eyes in the house.

In addition to the $5,000 check Volendam presented to the Pitcairn community, we filled their longboat with supplies—food, toiletries, beverages, even ice cream—before they headed back to their small harbor.

It was an immersive and inspirational six-hour “excursion” to an island we never actually set foot on, and yet, one of the best ever!

Tahiti, French Polynesia At dawn, the Captain deftly maneuvers the Volendam through the narrow cut in the reef, barely wide enough for our beam. Once safely inside the lagoon, she swings to port and settles into her spot along the downtown dock in Papeete. The city is already stirring on this Saturday morning.

The aroma of coffee and freshly baked baguettes hangs in the air as we stroll a few blocks to the Avis Rental Car counter, where our spiffy little Peugeot awaits. Tahiti’s “ring road” makes for an easy 80-mile circumnavigation of this magnificent island. Jagged emerald peaks tumble dramatically to black-sand beaches and sparkling blue seas. It truly feels like heaven on earth.

Beachside parking lots are already filling with local families settling in for a leisurely day off. Volleyball nets are strung, outrigger canoes carried down to the shoreline, and the women unpack enough food to feed an army. It’s joyful, communal, and wonderfully unhurried.

At Faarumai Waterfalls—known locally as Trois Cascades—the three waterfalls are breathtaking, each cascade creating its own cool downdraft of wind. Lush bamboo and flowering vegetation thrive in the constant mist.

We returned to the simple lunch spot we discovered last year—nothing fancy, just a sand floor, toes nearly in the water, and the best tuna tartare you’ve ever tasted.

Our final stop was a visit to the elegant InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, where overwater bungalows, a spectacular pool and beachfront amenities define South Pacific luxury.

With our departure not scheduled until 3 a.m., we had the rare treat of experiencing Papeete by night. At sunset, we rendezvoused with a small group of friends at a rooftop hotel overlooking the harbor, watching the sky melt from gold to indigo as the harbor lights flickered to life.

A perfect day in paradise—morning to night.

Moorea, French Polynesia As if Tahiti could be outdone, its sister island is certainly no shrinking flower! Only 11 miles separate these two idyllic twins, and they share much of the same dramatic topography—jagged green peaks rising sharply from impossibly blue seas.

But instead of touring the mountaintops, we chose to discover what lies beneath the surface.

A shipmate friend arranged a snorkel excursion for twelve of us, and soon we were plunging into crystalline turquoise waters, swimming alongside sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, and what felt like an entire armada of eagle rays gliding gracefully below us.

The prevalent purple-blue coral created a vivid backdrop for expansive patches of healthy staghorn coral, while swaying fingers of anemone sheltered the clownfish. Pacific triggerfish darted past, Moorish idols with their banners trailing, and schools of damselfish shimmered in the shafts of sunlight.

Lunch was at a casual beachside restaurant specializing in fresh tuna, accompanied by one of the most spectacular turquoise panoramas imaginable. It was almost too brilliant to be real.

Bora Bora – Our third stunning port in as many days, and somehow each island continues to raise the bar.

Once again, our merry band of snorkelers climbed aboard a local outrigger-style boat for a circumnavigation of Bora Bora’s inner fringe reef.

Four separate stops, each with its own personality: small reef sharks cruising lazily, graceful rays gliding past, vibrant coral gardens, and dreamy sandy “swimming pools” in waters so turquoise-teal they hardly seemed real.

Here (pronounced Harry), our local guide, not only kept us refreshed with cold beverages but also served up beautiful platters of fresh fruit and vegetables. As if that weren’t enough, he serenaded us with his ukulele while we drifted in paradise.

Yes, we all absorbed a bit too much sun, but the fun never stopped. We returned to the Volendam glowing (in more ways than one), eagerly anticipating cool freshwater showers before gathering again on deck for a festive sail-away into the sunset.

Our next scheduled port was Kingdom of Tonga, some 1,350 miles west…right where a tropical cyclone was brewing. To avoid the storm and its 30-foot waves, our trusty captain announced that MS Volendam would skip Tonga and instead, set a southwesterly course straight for Auckland. So, onward to New Zealand! More adventures to come…

My sincere thanks to all the contributing photographers of this blog:  Brad, Jo, Kathy, Martha, Mel, Patrick and Tom.

Volendam makes her way northward from the Antarctic, slicing through the notorious Drake Passage.  Its reputation runs deep with sailors, as wicked conditions typically rule this latitude, with mountainous seas, screaming winds and fierce currents.  But sometimes not.  We were fortunate to find our 705-mile passage to be moderate, with only two days of 12-15 ft seas and winds hovering around 30 kts.  “Happy Days”, as our Captain would say.   

Our destination is Patagonia, a geographical region in southern South America that spans parts of Argentina and Chile. It includes the southern portion of the Andes mountain range, featuring lakes, fjords, rainforests, and glaciers in the west, with deserts and flatlands toward the east. The region is hemmed by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, and several waterways that connect them, including the Strait of Magellan, the Beagle Channel, and the Drake Passage to the south.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, whose claim to fame is the southernmost city on the planet and often considered “the end of the world”.  It is also the launching point for those going on excursion ships to Antarctic, as well to those flocking here to explore the Andes Mountains and Patagonia. The town of about 82,000 people is a haven of hostels for backpackers and nature enthusiasts. 

The scenery here is hard to beat and once ashore, we headed for the Tierra del Fuego National Park, a massive 4,550 square-mile sanctuary that opened in 1960.  And yet only 3% of this park is open to the public; the rest is used for environmental and scientific studies of this sub-Antarctic forest and coastline along the Beagle Channel.

In addition to the incredible scenery of snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes and the cleanest air you might ever breathe, it is also the very end of the Pan American Highway. Lapataia Bay marks the end of the Highway—an 11,185-mile journey from Alaska.

Ensenada Bay, with lovely views over the Beagle Channel and the Andes Mountains…as well as home to the southernmost Post Office (below).

The Beagle Channel links the Atlanta and Pacific Oceans and is a continuation of the stunning landscape in this region.  Volendam threads her way through the labyrinth of waterways as we pass by 5 glacier runs and many waterfalls.  Being their summer, daylight is from 5am to 11pm, affording an almost endless IMAX experience any direction you look.

As we cross into Chilean waters, I thought you might enjoy a few notable facts about this remarkable country:

• Chile is the world’s longest country, with 4,000 miles of coastline
• Mountains cover 80% of the country.   
• Salmon farming is major industry
• Copper and Lithium producer.
• 200 days of rain/yr. 
• 1/3 of all volcanos in the world are found in Chile.
• About 10,000 earthquakes annually, with about 1,800 reaching a magnitude of 4 or higher each year.

Our next port was Punta Arenas, Chile – the heartland of Patagonia.   A beautiful but blustery 50 degree day begins with a stride against a stiff wind, uphill for a panoramic view of the entire city of 132,000 people.   Adjacent to the lookout, we step into a charming café to warm ourselves with a hot cup of coffee and linger over the view.  

We came upon the Plaza de Armas, where vendors, street performers and tourists made a lively scene.  Other highlights of our walk included visiting the Museo Naval Austral, and the park-like Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun, where mature cypress tree “canyons” have stood against decades of strong winds. 

Our friend Jo told us not to miss “the best hot chocolate she’s ever had” at the Le Chocolatier. She was right! 

Eventually, we gravitated back to the wharf area, where we found a group of friends already sampling local ales. We thoroughly enjoyed our 7-mile walking exploration of this wonderful and clean city. 

Puerto Montt –  is the capital of the Los Lagos region of Chile and known as the gateway to the country’s glacial lakes, volcanic landscapes and surrounding national parks.  A group of 19 of us chartered a bus to explore Puerto Varas, Frutillar & Petrohue Falls.

We headed for Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, a 1-hour drive through countryside that looks a lot like Wisconsin (aside from the volcano!).

A short walk though thickly wooded forest led us to the Petrohue River and its Waterfalls, pouring over volcanic rock. 

The snow-capped cone of Osorno Volcano stands in the distance.  Its last eruption was in 2015, spewing ashes almost 2 miles high! 

Our guide, Ignasio, was a wonderful host and during our roadside break, served us homemade empanadas and local wine. 

From there we head south to Puerto Varas, a 100-year-old German settlement on the shores of Llanquihue Lake, which stretches 22 miles long.  

The German influenced architecture and the distant snow-capped peaks of Mt. Calbuco and Mt. Tronador, make you feel like you’re in Bavaria, rather than Chile.  

The adjacent small town of Frutillar is a lakeside resort town with plenty of artisans and more German charm.     

It was a fantastic day, sharing sights, tastes and memories with friends!

San Antonio, Chile (Valparaiso) –  Volendam docks in the industrial port of San Antonio, the gateway to either Santiago or Valparaiso. We chose the latter.   Our friend Jo arranged a tour for 7 of us, which began with a 1.5-hour drive, passing through industrial areas, countryside and eventually, a panoramic coastal drive to the upscale resort town of Vina del Mar, a suburb of Valparaiso.  Our first stop was the iconic floral clock.  On the steep bluff beyond, stands the Cerro Castillo—summer palace of the Presidents of the Republic.   

From there, we continued to Valparaíso. We began in the lower town, El Plan, near the busy port. Plaza Sotomayor anchors this area, flanked by the imposing Naval Headquarters and the striking Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, a tribute to Chile’s maritime history.

An antique funicular carried us up into Los Cerros, and the hills that define Valparaíso’s character. The city spills dramatically over 42 hills, its narrow lanes lined with an eclectic mix of grand old mansions, weathered homes, and humble shacks.

Every available surface seems to serve as a canvas. Vivid street art and murals splash across walls, stairways, and alleyways.

Our midday stop was a charming little B&B with an intimate garden patio where lunch was served. It felt like a hidden oasis…until it wasn’t.

Unfortunately, there was a wolf among us. As we rose to leave after lunch, two of us realized we were missing personal items. My small pouch—containing my camera, phone, one credit card, and a few small bills—was gone. A fellow passenger’s entire wallet and phone had also disappeared.

I immediately asked Tom to check his Life360 app, which tracks my phone’s location. He showed the map to our waiter, who suddenly exclaimed, “I know where this is!” He grabbed Tom’s phone and dashed out the door, with Tom and our guide close behind.

They tracked the signal to an apartment building a few blocks away. After buzzing several units, someone let them in. Police soon arrived and searched the apartments of residents who agreed to cooperate. Others were either unoccupied or didn’t respond. While Life360 narrowed the signal to that building, it couldn’t pinpoint the exact apartment—and the phone’s ringer was left in silent mode. Despite everyone’s valiant efforts, our belongings had vanished into thin air. Darn it.

Naturally, we immediately canceled the credit cards and shut down my phone. In the end, it’s more of an inconvenience than catastrophe—but I’m still annoyed at myself for letting my guard down for even five minutes. Travel is full of lessons… and this was one of them.

Other than that unfortunate episode, our journey continues to be nothing short of extraordinary. And now, we’re turning our sights toward the next chapter: The South Pacific Islands.

Leaving Uruguay, Volendam set her course for the Falkland Islands, a 2-day passage.  The archipelago is made up of over 700 islands, with West and East Falkland being the largest.  Our destination is Port Stanley, the capital and major town on East Falkland.  

The human population of roughly 3,500 is easily outnumbered by the cows, sheep and penguins that call this place home.  We have a small weather window that will allow us to visit for the day before strong winds will make the harbor untenable by evening.  

Our tour begins in Port Stanley with a 2.5 hour drive aboard 4×4 Land Rovers across the rugged terrain to Volunteer Point and its inhabitants….King, Gentoo and Magellanic penguins!   Rockhopper and Marconi Penguins can be found elsewhere in the Falklands as well.

As we arrived, a small group of King penguins had just come ashore.  We walked freely with them as they waddled inland 100 yards to join their colony of a thousand or more.

Numerous Magellanic and Gentoo Penguin parents and their babies were also on hand, keeping close to their burrows, as sheep grazed in the neighborhood.

At this time of year, parents are either tending to their recently hatched and mostly naked babies or teaching young fledglings who are in the process of losing their downy feathers.   

The cooing, honking and whistling of this entire colony was quite a symphony!   It was an extraordinary experience to be among these incredible creatures in their natural habitat.

Back in Port Stanely, we had a couple hours to wander the small town.  Its few highlights included the Government House, Falklands War Memorial, Museum and Christ Church, the southernmost Anglican cathedral with notable Whalebone Arch. 

By the time we bought tee shirts and enjoyed a locally crafted pint, the winds had churned the harbor waves into a spumy froth. 

Volendam’s tenders struggled against 30-35 knot winds, causing a temporary pause in service.  Those standing in tender queue were nearly taken off their feet by the wind. Coach buses (and hot chocolate!) had been brought in to shelter those still ashore, until winds subsided a tad and service resumed.  Eventually, all were aboard and the Captain was happy to weigh anchor and head for open ocean again.   

But the winds were just getting started as Volendam headed into the nighttime hours (which incidentally are daylight at this latitude). Crossing the 60 degrees south latitude, we officially enter Antarctic waters.  Volendam cuts through the 12 to15-foot seas riddled with white caps whipped up from nearly 40 knot winds. Nevertheless, movement on the ship is quite tolerable, as her deep keel and stabilizers maintain a fairly steady and level ride.  The evening and all through the next day, however, fog and rain kept us from viewing too much scenery other than wind-streaked waves. 

An Ice Pilot and an Expedition Team joined the ship in Port Stanley and would be delivering presentations on a wide variety of topics of Antarctica; science, history, inhabitants (animal and human), as well as pointing out wildlife along the way.  This is Ian’s 25th expedition trip to Antarctica and Vonda’s 16th. They will remain aboard 8 days until we reach Ushuaia, Argentina.

We didn’t have to wait long until Ian announced the first sighting of a humpback whale off the starboard bow!   Over the next few days of scenic cruising, our eyes would also be peeled for potential sightings of minke and killer whales, fur and leopard seals, as well as gentoo, chinstrap and adelie penguins. 

Captain Van Eerten, Ice Pilot Joan and the entire team on the Navigation Bridge remained on high alert, navigating these polar waters, dodging ice bergs and watching for brash ice and or fog closing in on us. 

They routed Volendam deftly through tricky fiords, disappearing harbors, ice-riddled sounds and shifting channels, all the while seeking blue skies.  And boy, did they deliver!  The conditions were nearly perfect for the next three days as we plied the waters of the Gerlache Strait, Wilhelmina Bay, Cuverville Iland, Paradise Bay, Bryde Island, Wiencke Island, Neumyaer Channel and finally, Palmer Station. 

Majestic. Radiant. Breath-taking. Awe-inspiring.  Actually, none one of these words seem adequate enough to describe this extraordinary environment.  Words truly fail to describe, and photos simply do not do justice. I think it’s more about the inner emotion that evokes when you’re standing in the presence of Antarctica.  The feeling of absolute joy over the immense – and intense – purity of what you’re seeing, in a quiet world that speaks more loudly than words ever could.

The emotional imprint of Antarctica will last forever, as will images in the mind’s eye.   As far as our “mere mortal” photos go, I’ve included just a sampling of what we took. We will also be sorting through the rest, deleting hundreds of when the camera (or its operator) were a split second too late to capture any whales or penguins!

Our shipmate friend Patrick, 360-degree videoed a unique waterline view of the Volendam in Antarctica waters. Check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1DXn4urqKL/

After 37 days on a southerly heading from Florida, Volendam has arrived at the bottom of the world and now begins a northerly course.  We will cross the notorious Drake Passage, heading for Cape Horn and Patagonia.  Stay tuned!   

Olbia, Sardinia is a charming island town in Italy with friendly locals and a relaxed vibe. Our visit today was brief, just from 7:00 am to 1:30 pm, but Olbia is compact and easily walkable, especially on a crisp, cloudless morning of 57 degrees.

By 8:00 am, the old town was still quiet when we reached the city center, home to about 60,000 residents. We found one open café, ordered two cappuccinos, and mapped out a walking route to hit the town’s highlights.

We began with Corso Umberto, an inviting pedestrian street lined with boutiques, cafés, and handsome old buildings. Just a block away, the Church of San Paolo caught the morning light, its colorful tiled dome vivid against the sky.

From there, we wandered through narrow alleyways, quiet neighborhoods, and sunlit piazzas until we reached the expansive, recently developed Parco Fausto Noce. The park featured an amphitheater, fitness stations, a fountain, and striking bottlebrush trees in bloom.

Olbia also revealed its playful side, with a brightly painted carousel and Ferris wheel in their coastal park, along with a quirky, themed laundromat inspired by the TV series “The Jeffersons.”

Barcelona, Spain: A memorable two-day stop in Barcelona awaited passengers aboard the Zuiderdam and her sister ship, Volendam, who was also in port. The Volendam was midway through her ambitious 133-day Pole-to-Pole itinerary, and the two ships docked stern-to-stern in close proximity. In fact, Staff Captain Karl shared with us that the ships had to request a special deviation from the port authority to reduce the standard 200-foot clearance between docked vessels. The harbor masters approved, and just 100 feet separated the ships, making for an unusually cozy and photogenic tie-up.

Event planning had been in the works for months on the “Grand Meet Up”, including a nighttime drone show visible from either ship’s aft deck. While crews busied themselves with preparations for the evening’s festivities, we went ashore to do some sightseeing. Having visited Barcelona before, we decided to explore the Gothic Quarter, an area that was new to us.

We strolled along the lively Rambla, taking in the familiar sights: the Columbus Monument, rich architecture, street performers, and bustling cafés. Veering off to the right, we wandered into Plaza Reial, where we sipped cappuccinos and enjoyed some relaxed people-watching. From there, the labyrinthine alleyways of the Gothic Quarter drew us in with their medieval charm. The aromas from a tiny pâtisserie filled with locals drew us in and we ordered a rustic toasted ham and brie sandwich. No tourists in sight, just authentic, delicious simplicity.

We returned to the pier early, eager to tour the Volendam, which recently underwent a multi-million dollar refurbishment and looked pristine. It will be our ship for next year’s cruise, so getting a sneak peek was a treat.

As late afternoon arrived, passengers from both ships gathered for the two-ship gala; a festive food and wine reception filled with laughter, music, and reunions. Many travelers on board Zuiderdam and Volendam knew one another from past voyages, so it felt like a floating reunion.

Once darkness settled over the harbor, the much-anticipated drone show was introduced by Holland America Line’s President and CEO. It was a dazzling display of each ship’s journey illustrated in the night sky and commemorated this special rendezvous in Barcelona. It was a magical night, filled with friendship and celebration. Many thanks to our friend, Brad, who shared his video of the drone show:

The Holland America “Grand Meet-Up” in Barcelona was an unforgettable highlight of our cruise!

The following morning, we were part of a group of ten friends—five from each ship—for a six-hour guided tour of Gaudí’s strange and beautiful masterpieces. First, the towering spectacle of Sagrada Família:

Next, was the whimsical and bizarre Casa Batlló (The “Bone House”), where hardly a flat surface exists:

And lastly, the sprawling Park Güell, with impressive stonework and vibrant mosaics:

Gaudí’s visionary designs felt like stepping into a dream. He was an architectural genius, far ahead of his time. Thanks to our friend, Jo, for planning such a fun day!

Just 220 nautical miles down the Spanish coast, we arrived in the harbor of Alicante. After the bustling energy of Barcelona and the gala festivities of the Grand Meet-Up, this medium-sized coastal city offered a welcome change of pace.

We set out to explore the Old Town, climbing its many winding staircases lined with colorful doorways and vibrant flower pots, making our way up to the Castle of Santa Barbara.

Perched high above the city at an elevation of 545 feet, this 9th-century fortress offers panoramic views of the coastline and surrounding landscape.

Back in the town center, we wandered through the lively mercado, past traffic circles, sunny plazas, and charming cafés, where we paused to share a juicy steak sandwich, recommended by the owner.

As the day wound down, we made our way back toward the harbor along their iconic palm-lined Esplanade, said to be paved with more than six million mosaic tiles.

And the adjacent beach was perfect finish to a relaxed and scenic day in Alicante!

Lisbon, Portugal Early morning sun reflected off the yellow buildings surrounding the expansive Commerce Square as we walked inland beneath the Rua Augusta Arch. Completed in 1873, the magnificent arch celebrated the reconstruction of Lisbon after their devastating 1755 earthquake. 

Our day in Lisbon started with a ride on the legendary Tram 28, winding its way uphill to the charming neighborhoods of Graca and Alfama. We enjoyed cappuccinos with sweeping views of the city and another rare double sighting of our ships, Volendam and Zuiderdam, docked together once again.

Of course, no visit to Lisbon is complete without sampling the local flavors. We indulged in the famous pastel de nata (a rich egg custard tart), a savory Iberian ham and sheep cheese sandwich, and a Banfi hot pork sandwich—hot, juicy, messy, and totally worth it.

Things took a turn just as we headed toward another cobblestone plaza. Suddenly, the power went out. We stopped at a café for a drink and were told: no food, no cards, no bathroom—drinks only. At first, we figured it was a local outage. But while people-watching from our café table, we overheard a nearby patron mention the power failure extended across Portugal, into Spain, and even parts of northern France. At that point, it was clear this wasn’t just a local glitch, and we weren’t sure what might come next.

We decided it was prudent to head back toward the port, just in case. Just outside the cruise terminal we bumped into Captain Frank, who was waiting for his wife, Alexandra, to return from an excursion. We chatted about the breaking news, while trams sat frozen in the middle of intersections, traffic lights were out, and vehicles were at a standstill. And the subway? We could only imagine.

Naturally, our ship is its own independent power plant, so Zuiderdam was not being affected in the least. Since Captain Frank felt that there was no immediate cause for alarm, Alexandra joined us to rendezvous with our friends from the Volendam. The café where we waited near the ship became a hub of speculation. People were abuzz about the blackout. We were still limited to drinks only, so we made the most of it with white sangria, water, and sodas.

By 2:45 pm, we returned to the ship for the 3:30 all-aboard, but things weren’t quite wrapping up. Ten passengers were still missing, reportedly caught somewhere in the city amid the outage. The Zuiderdam crew rose to the occasion with a gluttonous seafood feast: oysters on the half shell, snow crab, lobster tails, mussels, sides galore, and complimentary wine while we waited and listened to regular updates from the captain.

He kept us informed not only about the missing guests, but also about the pilot’s delayed arrival, tide concerns, and building winds in Tangier, our next port.

Hours later with all guests aboard, Zuiderdam turned south into the rising swells, making her way 308 nautical miles south to Morocco—our final stop in the Mediterranean region.

A cool, cloudy, and breezy day greeted us in the Port of Tangier. Just two days ago, strong winds threatened to cancel our arrival altogether, so we were grateful for an improved forecast. A three-hour late departure from Lisbon meant a matching delay into Tangier, leaving us shore time from noon to 5:30 PM…plenty of time to retrace our steps from our 2023 visit, with a few welcome deviations.

Tangier is a highly walkable city, with its must-see landmarks clustered within the Medina, including the Kasbah Terrace and the bustling souks. But here, it’s not so much about the “sights” as it is about the sightings. Intricate mosaic tiles embellish walls, entryways, and walkways, reflecting Tangier’s rich Islamic heritage.

Shopping in Tangier is a colorful barrage of tightly packed stalls, each offering its own unique collections: scarves and shawls, shoes, spices, jellabas, and kaftans (robes/dresses).

The city’s tight, winding alleyways always seem to lead to unexpected corners—even if you’ve visited before. This time, we discovered a couple of rooftop restaurants offering spectacular views of the city, home to 1.2 million people.

Morocco never disappoints, and Tangier delivered with its coastal beauty and old-world intrigue. It was a bittersweet feeling amongst our shipboard community, knowing we were leaving our last foreign port of this voyage.  

As we headed into the Atlantic, the Captain altered course to avoid the brunt of a large low-pressure system that would cross ahead of us.  While this minimized some motion of the ship, we still experienced the outer bands of storm circulation that fed us with strong winds and lumpy seas.  Pools were drained, outer doors were closed off and Zuiderdam shuddered and shook for 36 hours. Overall, we can’t complain. There were really only about 5 or 6 sea days on this entire 124-day circumnavigation when the ship had any significant motion. Zuiderdam has taken good care of us!

Six sea days later, we arrived in San Juan, Puerto Rico, a warm, tropical finale to our whirlwind itinerary. Not only is San Juan a vibrant and welcoming destination, but it’s also an efficient port for clearing us back through U.S. Customs and Immigration, which means our final disembarkation in Fort Lauderdale will be quick and hassle-free.

Once cleared, our group of ten made our way to Old San Juan, where we had appointments at Anam Spa & Lounge for much needed mani/pedis and foot massages. According to Tom’s iPhone, we have walked 581 miles during this journey, so those massages were well-deserved…and the accompanying margaritas, very well-received!

Old San Juan is looking revitalized with fresh paint and renovations made since the damage caused by the 2017 hurricanes.

It felt really good to be back on U.S. soil and see the American flag waving once again. Traveling abroad offers plenty of reminders to be grateful for the freedoms we enjoy.

What a journey it’s been! 39,319 nautical miles, 32 countries, and 49 ports later, we’re still trying to wrap our heads around it all. This world is even more beautiful and surprising than we ever imagined, and we feel incredibly lucky to have experienced so many different places, people, and cultures. There were moments of awe, fleeting perplexity, and plenty of joy along the way.  We’ve returned home with full hearts, way too many photos, and a deep appreciation for just how big…and small…our world can feel.  What a gift it is to explore this world, and what a privilege it was to do so on this unforgettable voyage.

“Travel isn’t always about finding new landscapes but seeing with new eyes.” –  Marcel Proust

The Zuiderdam had cast off from the docks of Malta at 10:30 PM, setting course for Alexandria, Egypt. Over the next two sea days, she covered 810 nautical miles across the Mediterranean. Anticipation built as we neared the port—we were eager to stand before the legendary symbols of ancient Egypt.

Our 5:30am alarm got us going for a full-day excursion that would take us to Cairo and Giza, visiting the Museum of Antiquities, the Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx.  Excitement buzzes throughout the ship during breakfast, because not only are more than 800 passengers going, but also almost 300 of our beloved crew.  Over 25 buses with police escorts will make the 3-hour commute, then split off into the various excursions offered.  Each bus has its own itinerary and tour guide.

Leaving the port area, we drove through very poor neighborhoods with crumbling buildings and piles of rubble everywhere. 

Within a half hour, the terrain became more rural, and we viewed the green agricultural acreage being nurtured between the two fertile arms of the Nile River.  Orchards of citrus trees and date palms dominated the landscape. 

Every 2 or 3 miles we passed a mosque; some small, some larger, predicated on the size of the nearby settlement (left, below).  Also numerous near some homes were pigeon towers (right, below).  Not only do the 15-20 foot vertical cone structures encourage pigeon population into the fields for pest control but also serve as a “pigeon coop”. Considered a delicacy in Egypt, pigeons are stuffed with rice and roasted for special occasions.

Entering the outskirts of Giza and Cairo, new roads have been laid, and long city blocks of new high-rises sit empty.  Locals tell us that while the government attempts to improve its infrastructure and quality of life for its citizens, no one can afford the rent, nor have the means of transportation necessary to get there.

Downtown Cairo is just as frenetic and exotic as you can imagine.  Streets are jammed and horns are blaring.  Camels, mules and horse drawn carts intermix in traffic beside Mercedes sedans and lorry trucks.  Piles of trash and more rubble can be seen everywhere.

The Museum of Antiquities was our first stop, with its extraordinary collection of some of the world’s most valuable artifacts, including King Tut’s funeral mask.

But of the twelve great halls of exhibits normally available for viewing, we had access to one, as contents are already being relocated to the new, larger Grand Egyptian Museum, opening this June in Giza.  One hall contained plenty for us to see!

Our one-hour stroll provided only a brief glimpse into the depth of its collections, so here’s a link for more, if interested: https://egyptianmuseumcairo.eg/

The Pyramids of Giza stand out in the distance nearly anywhere you are in Cairo.  Three triangles loom in the hazy horizon, the same color as the sand.  But no matter how far or near, I will say emphatically that nothing prepares you for how utterly massive they are seeing them in person.

And once you’re standing at the pyramids base gazing upward, you’re astonished at the absolute precision that each stone block is laid. They form fit together so tightly (grout was never used), that not even a razor blade could be slid between them.  Never mind how they even got the blocks here in the first place, or how they hefted them in place. Truly bewildering!

The Great Sphinx commands quite a presence.  Believed to be approximately 4,500 years old, it faces East and is said to inhale the sunrise every day. 

Back on the ship, I shared an elevator ride with another passenger. Though we were both exhausted after a 14-hour excursion, we smiled and agreed: “Today was unforgettable.”

Kusadasi, Turkey is a charming seaside town of 200,000 residents, that swells to over a million with Europeans who love to summer here.  It is also the gateway to the ancient ruins of Ephesus, only 12 miles away. 

Exploring the Ephesus ruins was like stepping into a time machine that transported us to an ancient civilization that lived in grandeur.  We wandered through the marbled Curetes Street, marveled at the towering Library of Celsus, Terrace Houses, the Rhodian Peristyle, Prytaneum, Basilica Stoa, Stage Agora and the impressive Great Theater.

The intricate carvings and architectural details left us in awe, and we could almost imagine the bustling life of this once-thriving city. The ruins are incredibly well-preserved, making it easy to visualize the history that unfolded here.

Returning to the town of Kusadasi, we had time to stroll the streets and marketplace.

Though our visit was brief, the experience was unforgettable…a perfect blend of history, culture, and beauty.

Piraeus, Greece: With four cruise ships in port and most passengers likely heading to Athens to visit the Acropolis, we decided to take a different path. Perhaps we were a bit worn out from the crowds and historical sites, so instead, we chose to explore the coastal city of Piraeus.

Piraeus is a gem in its own right—especially on this Holy Saturday, the day before Easter. As we disembarked the ship at 8 a.m., the joyful pealing of church bells rang out from the 31 Greek Orthodox churches scattered throughout this municipality of 168,000.

Soon after, singing sermons echoed from loudspeakers into the open air, creating a moving, spiritual atmosphere on a clear, cloudless morning. (Turn up your volume for audio video below.)

Those sacred sounds followed us for the next few morning hours as we wandered from one neighborhood to another. The scent of orange blossoms and honeysuckle filled the empty streets, which were deserted during the city’s time of worship.

Eventually, we climbed a steep hill and were rewarded with a sweeping view over Mikrolimano Harbor. From there, we made our way down to the promenade for a cappuccino. By now, café owners were beginning to open their doors and set up for lunch, while families gathered for after-church celebrations. The mood was peaceful, relaxed, and joyful.

Easter Sunday was a sea day aboard Zuiderdam, filled with sunrise sermons on the aft deck, egg hunts, brunch, and a festive dinner shared at a table of ten. Just days before, Mount Etna had begun to stir, and that evening, as the Zuiderdam glided through the narrow Strait of Messina—only 1.5 miles wide—we caught a glimpse of nature’s own light show. Stromboli continued its latest eruption, casting a fiery glow into the night as we passed. It’s a shame our camera couldn’t capture the evening show, but I was on deck early for the morning show as we were coming into Naples….

We awoke to a quiet Easter Monday in Naples. The plazas and streets were still hushed, the city seemingly catching its breath after the holiday weekend. Our morning began with a visit to the Galleria Umberto, Piazza del Plebiscito and its Royal Palace and Basilica, followed by Naples special hazelnut coffee and pastries.

From there, we stumbled upon a sign for the funicular. For just 1.50 Euro, it carried us to the top of the hill, where we followed signs to Castle Sant’Elmo. The castle soon came into view—its massive stone walls commanding attention. With no line at the ticket booth, we thought, “Why not?”

From 780 feet elevation, we were rewarded with sweeping, panoramic views of Naples below, the bay stretching out to the horizon.

An added surprise was strolling through a modern art museum located in one of the central stone halls.  

Afterwards, we began the long walk down, following a pedestrian stairway that wound through narrow alleys and between homes seemingly suspended on the hillside. It was a quiet, intimate descent, with glimpses into everyday life tucked between ancient walls.

But at the bottom, the city was wide awake. Every street was packed with pedestrians—mostly locals. Families with strollers, groups of friends, children darting between legs. Naples had come alive for the Easter holiday.

We found an inviting outdoor table in the shadow of a bell tower and ordered pizzas. In the birthplace of pizza, it’s no surprise the Italians deliver perfection: wood-fired, thin-crust masterpieces made with ultra-fine “00” flour for the lightest, crispiest base. The tomato sauce is delicate—lightly seasoned, never overwhelming—and the toppings are meant to enhance, not smother.

From there, we meandered slowly through the thickening crowds, the energy of the city buzzing around us.

That afternoon however, somber news filtered through the streets. Word had spread: the Pope had died. Locals read the notices being pasted to the walls around the city. Their faces were quiet and reflective, mirroring the shift in atmosphere as the weight of the news settled in.

An overnight sail brought us to the Port of Civitavecchia, a coastal Italian town just north of Rome. With the Pope’s passing the day before, the ship’s excursion team had been working diligently to confirm that tours into Rome would still proceed as planned. Understandably, there were concerns about heavy traffic, already intense during Easter weekend, and now further compounded by those arriving to pay pilgrimage.

But our plans were more relaxed. Having never explored Civitavecchia itself, we opted to spend the day discovering this charming seaside town of 52,000 residents.

Tom had thoughtfully crafted a self-guided walking and nibbling tour. We began at Pasticceria La Fontana, a cozy local café tucked along a narrow residential alley. Over cappuccino and fresh pastries, we sat outside and watched as residents walked their dogs through the quiet morning streets. Flags hung at half-mast in honor of the Pope, lending a solemn note to the calm atmosphere.

Next, we stopped at Pizzeria La Ternana, the oldest pizzeria in town, where a colorful selection of pizzas was on display. We opted for a traditional slice with a subtle hint of anchovy—salty, simple, and satisfying.

Just around the corner was the Mercato di Civitavecchia, a bustling local market offering everything from fresh fish and meats to produce and clothing. It was lively and authentic, full of the sounds and smells of everyday life.

Later, we wandered down to the waterfront promenade. As the sun climbed higher and warmed the air, the shoreline grew livelier, with more locals emerging to enjoy the brightening day.

For our afternoon treat, we found Le delizie di zio bibi along the main strand and shared a charcuterie board featuring regional cured meats and cheeses—flavors that perfectly matched the town’s rustic charm. Fort Michelangelo bid us farewell as we walked back to the ship.

Civitavecchia surprised us. It offered a friendly, unhurried feel and delightful streets to explore—an ideal pause amid the grander stops of our journey.

As the sun sets over Italy, the Zuiderdam charts her course toward Sardinia and Spain—our next ports of call. More adventures await… stay tuned!

Priai, Ilha de Santiago – Cape Verde Islands

Lying just 350 miles west of Senegal are the Cape Verde archipelago consisting of 10 islands.  Praia is the capital and largest city located on the island of Santiago and offers a blend of Portuguese and West African cultures and colonial architecture.   

Street art and murals are popular and can be found throughout the city.

The ship provided a shuttle from the pier to Alexandre Albuquerque Square where we began our exploration on foot. The adjacent pedestrian street was lined with small shops that were just beginning to open for the day. 

It seems that no matter where you might be in the world, nothing says “Saturday” more than a central market.  Praia’s Sucupira Market was in full force for our morning visit.  Hawkers shouting in their native Creole, countless vendors transporting nearly everything on their heads, and the aromas of street cooking provided stimuli overload for our senses as we walked through. 

Along the coast, Prainha Beach was lined with small hotels and condos.  We indulged in a massage at the Hotel Barcelo before finding some lunch in a lovely café. 

The grilled grouper with rice and sauteed vegetables, a generous platter of Portuguese sausages and cheeses, and 2 glasses of wine cost less than $30. Praia was a relaxing and delicious visit!

Santa Cruz, Tenerife – Canary Islands After two days at sea, covering 937 nautical miles, we arrived at Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the largest of the seven Canary Islands. This friendly port city is home to approximately 200,000 residents and combines history, modern architecture, old world charm, and natural beauty.

Despite the volcanic terrain, landscapers were trimming the grassy areas adjacent to the ship’s pier.  The smell of fresh cut grass was something we didn’t even know we longed for. It smelled so good! 

Our 9-mile walkabout in town included all the sights, starting with the shoreline promenade to the Opera House, a swimming club and an oceanfront botanical garden called Palmetum, featuring palms from around the world.  

Onward through plazas, residential neighborhoods, pedestrian shopping streets, parks and an artsy Central market complete with florists, handicraft artisans, gourmet cheeses, meats and the usual produce.

Beyond the sights, it’s always important to get to know a place by its local cuisine!  Like the deliciously indulgent Tenerife ‘barraquito’, a multi-layered coffee liqueur drink, and some hearty Iberian Ham Tartare.

Arrecife, Lanzarote – Canary Islands The second Canary Island we visit is northeast by 158 miles. Lanzarote’s landscape is dotted with hundreds of volcanic cones and looks like it could be the surface of the moon.  But the coastal town of Arrecife is an oasis, with a decidedly Mediterranean feel to it; from the El Charco tidal lagoon, to its seafront promenade lined with palms, and the golden sands of El Reducto beach.  We enjoyed a lovely day here, walking around in the mid 70-degree sunshine!

The crisp-looking blue and white painted buildings, a modern promenade and lively pedestrian streets make Arrecife a delightful place to visit!

From the Canary Islands, we follow the Moroccan coast 609 nautical miles to the entrance of the Mediterranean and the Strait of Gibraltar. Winds often funnel through the Strait at gale force strength or greater. Here’s a screen shot of wind gusts for our transit’s date and time. Fortunately, the wind was on our bow and there wasn’t too much fetch on the surface conditions. We felt some gyrations, but fortunately at 4am, most everyone was still in bed.

Gibraltar, Overseas British Territory At 6:30am, Zuiderdam makes an impressive maneuver of backing into the narrow entrance of the Gibraltar breakwater and is secured to the pier just before dawn. We are on deck to watch “The Rock” reveal itself to a new day.

Located at the southern tip of Europe, this tiny 2.6 square mile British Overseas Territory is known for its giant limestone rock formation, as well as for its strategic part in wartime and maritime histories.  It is home to 34,000 people and about 300 Barbary Macaque monkeys, their unofficial mascot. 

With an all-aboard time of 3:30pm, we hurried to secure a tour guide from the pier parking lot. Joseph was born on Gibraltar and shared history, facts and figures as we sped along winding one-lane roads from south to north and of course, UP!

Above, the Europa Point Lighthouse, stands 66 feet tall on the southernmost point and was built in1800’s. The island photo gives you an idea of its urban density.

St Michael’s Cave contains the magnificent beauty of stalactites/mites, and various limestone chambers.  The especially cavernous Cathedral Cave is used as an auditorium, with seating for 400 in front of a concrete stage.  With natural acoustics, this venue hosts operas, concerts and other events.  For tourists, a fantastic light show is shown every 7 minutes. 

The Upper Rock Nature Reserve rises 1,397 feet above sea level. We crept out on the overhanging platform of the “Skywalk”, which featured a clear (well, opaque) floor. If you dare to look down or over the edge, the 1,115 feet of sheer rock face plummets straight into the foaming sea beneath. Photos simply didn’t do it justice.

Unfazed by heights are the population of the Barbary Macaque ‘apes’ that rule the roost here. Assertive, clever and curious, they are quick to grab anything of yours that is not attached!

Both the Great Siege Tunnels of the 1700’s and the WWII Tunnels of the 1940’s are historic defense systems as well as feats of engineering. For instance, peak tunnelling speed for the WWII tunnels was 177 feet per week. There were over 27 miles of tunnels carved out by 1945. The legacy of and about these tunnels goes well beyond the scope of this blog, but worth looking up if you’re a war history buff.

Another historical site was The Moorish Castle. The plaque above the small entryway reads: “When the Moors recaptured Gibraltar from the Spaniards in 1333 they rebuilt an earlier tower ruined in the fighting, into this solid tower of homage, which has since withstood ten sieges.” 

A unique feature about Gibraltar’s airport is that a city road goes right across the runway! Naturally, the road is temporarily closed for the 3 daily flights. In 2023, they’ve finally built a tunnel, but for pedestrians only.  

The small geographic space of this island also results in densely populated streets with diverse cuisines and a wide variety of shopping; everything from luxury brands to artisan wares.  Glassworks and ceramics are popular here. Gibraltar even makes its own gin!

The Grand Casemates Square is where we finally took a break and snacked on a delicious thin crust pizza. However, the massive portions of fish & chips were popular at many eateries as well.

Honestly, there was so much to see in our short time there, that I’m including this link for more information as well as aerial photos that I could never capture! https://gibraltar.com/en/about-gibraltar/welcome-to-gibraltar.php

Cartegena, Spain – Did you know that there are more than thirty Cartagena’s in the world?  Today, we visited the oldest one!  Located on the southeastern region of Spain, this ancient town was founded around 227 B.C. 

A group of us got together for a ‘Walking & Tapas” tour within the historical center to learn about the history and foods of Cartagena. The Roman Theater was certainly a highlight, as was wandering the narrow, pedestrian-only streets of Old Town. 

On the banyan-shaded and marbled Plaza San Francisco, we stopped at Al Diablo Tapas to taste their Magra con Tomate, a hearty pork stew with tomato and peppers. 

As we strolled, we asked about the reason for the number of abandoned facades we were seeing.  Our guide explained that the city’s construction codes require that a building must preserve and use its original, historical architecture.  But the hidden structural problems and preservation costs are typically more than an owner can afford, and therefore many have fallen into even further disrepair.  However, efforts are being made to preserve and restore these historic structures, as they are an integral part of Cartagena’s cultural identity and charm.

Our next stop was at La Fuente, one of the oldest café’s for a traditional snack of “Marinera”.  Similar to what we may know as tuna salad, Cartagena’s version is made with a mixture of tuna, potato, egg and mayo, topped with an entire fresh anchovy filet and served on a crispy bread stick.  Asiatico coffee was our accompaniment. 

Along the way, our guide shared history, short stories, and spoke of daily life in Cartagena. We also had to step out of the way for a few Holy Week processions that were taking place in the narrow streets. 

Our last tapas stop was at the vegan Chef Momo café for Arancini, Spanish-style.   Rice, couscous and cheese topped with a cheese sauce. 

We all waddled back to the harbor and marina promenade with full bellies and a better understanding of Cartagena’s social life and gastronomy.  

During the sea day after leaving Cartagena, I was still reflecting on its age, trying to get my head around 227 B.C.!   In the United States, when we think of “old” we consider our histories as around 200 years old.  But now that we’re traveling in the Mediterranean, it seems wherever you wander here, “old” means “ancient”!   Most of our next ports will all offer rich histories of empires, pharos and past civilizations, so please forgive any overuse of words used to describe millennia!    

Case in point is our next port of call, Valletta, Malta, which may be one of the oldest continuously inhabited spots in Europe, since around 5900 B.C.!  And per Wikipedia, Malta’s been ruled by all kinds of powers: the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, the Knights of St. John, the French under Napoleon, and then the British. It finally became independent in 1964 and a republic in 1974.

Zuiderdam makes her entrance into the inner harbor of Valletta before noon, with plenty of locals and tourists ashore waving a warm welcome.  The stunning ancient city surrounds the harbor, making for a spectacular sail-in.  Every angle of Malta seems to present a grand photo op!

Not knowing too much about Malta, we were eager to explore and discover this small island of 122 square miles.  We found the best means to cover the most ground in a few hours was a Hop On Hop Off bus.   We began by heading out of town first and would save exploring Valletta for the afternoon. 

Despite the cool wind, the panoramic views from the open-top bus were breathtaking on our way to the medieval walled city of Mdina.  Sitting atop a hill, Game of Thrones fans might recognize it as the filming location for King’s Landing in Season 1.

We leave the bus and walk through the thick, golden stone walls of the main gate and follow the labyrinth of narrow passages to wherever they may lead.  It’s as if we’ve passed through a time machine. 

An hour later, we reboard the bus and make stops at landmarks like Golden Bay and the Mosta Dome, as well as pass through their agricultural belt, blending natural splendor with cultural heritage. It was a whirlwind tour that showed us Malta’s diverse landscapes, chic coastal towns, and rich history in just a few hours.

But maybe saving the best for last, we crisscross the Baroque streets of Valletta, finding monuments and impressive architecture at every turn, including the Library and St. John’s Co-Cathedral.

Tuckered out, hungry and thirsty, we sat at an outdoor café to people-watch while eating.  I ordered their traditional rabbit stew and while Tom had local goat cheese ravioli.   With dusk came cooler temperatures, so we headed back to the ship. 

Later, Tom and I watched from our portside cabin veranda as Zuiderdam slipped her Malta dock lines at 10:30pm.   It was gorgeous sail-away, with golden lights illuminating the ancient walls of Valletta.  The tugboat and pilot boat escorted her until the breakwater, where she turned to starboard into the darkness.    Malta is truly a hidden gem of the Mediterranean!

Our eastward course over 860 nautical miles will bring us to the Port of Alexandria, Egypt.  The mysteries of the pyramids await …….

The first sea day after leaving Reunion Island was a bit rough.  Remnant winds from Cyclone Jude were still churning the Indian Ocean and Zuiderdam pitched and rolled in 12-foot seas, enough to keep many within their cabins.  The staff drained the 2 swimming pools and 5 hot tubs, all of which had water breaching their sides.  The access doors to the outside promenade on Deck 3 were also closed off.  Yep, Day 74 had finally brought about some motion that a small group of us aboard actually enjoyed, albeit short-lived. The two days that followed were calmer but rainy, and after 1,352 nautical miles, we reached the southeast coast of Africa. 

Zuiderdam made her way into the length of the buoyed entrance of Richards Bay, South Africa.  The scent of pine trees that border this natural and deep harbor was a welcome change from the briny air of the Indian Ocean.  

Seven of us were excited to disembark the ship for an overnight excursion to find wild animals.  We would depart the ship in Richards Bay and rejoin her the following day in Durban. 

Tour guide Jacqui met us at the pier for a 2-hour drive to our first animal experience:  hippos!  We boarded a river boat to venture into the iSimangaliso Wetlands and the St. Lucia Estuary, home to the largest hippo population in South Africa…over 800.  

We came upon dozens of these behemoth mammals cooling themselves in the muddy waters. Males can reach lengths of 10-16 feet, and weigh up to 9,500 pounds, while females weigh up to 3,000 pounds. Hippos are often lazy during the heat of the day, but we’re told that it’s not unusual for them to wander through the town of St. Lucia at night, nibbling on lawns or gardens. My frustrations with deer damage in my Wisconsin garden seem petty now.   

From there, we drove another 2 hours northwest to arrive at the Hluhluwe IMfolozi Game Reserve located in the Zululand. Day Safaris in and Around Zululand – Hluhluwe Game Reserve            

This massive swath of 240,000 acres is home to the free-roaming Big 5, known as Lions, Leopards, Rhinos, Elephants, Water Buffalo.  As well as springbok, nyala and kudu, impala, red duiker, wildebeest, warthogs, zebra, giraffe, wild dogs, hyenas, countless birds, reptiles and amphibians.       

We arrived at Hilltop Camp in the afternoon for a quick check-in and deposited our backpacks for our overnight stay.

Each thatch roofed building housed two deluxe accommodations.  The spartan yet clean rooms featured original fixtures, woodwork and homemade cabinets.  Air conditioning units have been recently added. 

Minutes later, we met our local Zulu safari guide, who goes by “Happy Man”, a fitting moniker.  We boarded his sturdy open-air vehicle, leaving the camp pavement behind for the bush trails that wound through valleys and hills. 

We never knew what might be lurking around the next corner or crest.  We were often surprised by elephants or rhinos, grazing just off the trail.  We were close enough to smell their musk and hear them chewing.  Our guide shared that because of his year’s extended wet season, it had resulted in more babies, and we saw many young ones across the breeds. 

Catching the slight movements of grass, we watched as two male lions crept slowly across the field.  A resting rhino alerted and shifted position from prone to standing, eyes and ears tuned towards the approaching pair.  Our guide whispered that the lions would likely not attack the lone rhino. Not only are the males generally lazy (he said there are plenty of parallels in the human and animal kingdom!), but it’s typically the female lion who does the hunting, allowing the males priority to eat before dining herself.

During our four-hour game drive, we observed the transition from afternoon light to dusk to darkness. The shift revealed a fascinating change in animal behavior, from lethargic siestas to intense hunting or cautious evasion as predator and prey became more active. 

The darkness also brought a chill to the air as our vehicle bounced us back towards the lodge.  The constellations of the Southern Cross and Orion revealed themselves in the dark sanctuary sky.  Nearing almost 8pm, we opted for dinner immediately upon our return to Camp, saving showers for afterwards.   Local braii game meat platters and curries were offered, which we all ate hungrily.  I think we all may have been asleep before our heads hit the pillows.  

The Camp was chilly and shrouded in darkness as we climbed into the safari truck at 4:45 am.   We set off on our 4-hour morning drive, foregoing breakfast and coffee until later, with anticipation propelling us.  

The darkness seemed to make you more aware of the pre-dawn stillness. But at the first sign of dim light on the horizon, a nearby bird pierced the silence with its morning call, followed by others.  Nature’s alarm clock.  A new day begins in the wild.

Leaving the nighttime safety of the high hills, a herd of elephants began their slow migration down to the watering hole.  Mostly females and babies, followed by the males who tussled over who would dominate today.

We came upon a male and female lion sauntering down the dirt road for several hundred yards before turning into the bush.  Happy Man continues to keep pace with them, 50 yards in the bush.  Suddenly, the lioness rockets after a warthog, with the lion sprinting behind.  The short burst is over in less than a minute.  The lioness missed and the warthog lives another day.   

Our relatively short safari was long on experiences and sights of so many beautiful animals.  During the four-hour drive to Durban, we collectively recalled and listed the various species and breeds observed, which amounted to a total of 32 animals, birds, or reptiles (even a chameleon!). 

Our merry band of travelers were content to return to Zuiderdam for welcomed long, hot showers. And I was grateful to have two sea days to cull through the too-many photos I took!

Table Mountain was shrouded in the low hanging clouds and rain fell on our decks as we entered the Port of Cape Town, South Africa. Zuiderdam found her pier where she’d stay for 2 days, bringing on reprovisions, supplies and fuel, while the rest of us played ashore. 

Only an hour from the port, the mountainous and scenic Stellenbosch is home to award-winning vineyards and orchards.   Visit Stellenbosch – Official Stellenbosch Tourist and Information Centre   Our group of six met Cedric, a private guide, who was impressively knowledgeable in viticulture and winemaking, and supplemented our drive with his expertise.

Our first visit was to Kanonkop, a 4^th generation family owned wine estate.  We watched their classic approach to wine making, including yeast inoculation with manual punch-downs every two hours during fermentation to ensure optimum tannin and color extraction. 

Further afield, Cedric’s van climbed the muddy track leading to Rainbow’s End Wine Estate with its stunning views.  The rain had begun to abate, and the clearing clouds afforded us a peek at majestic Jonkershoek Mountain. 

For lunch, we enjoyed a South African favorite of “Bobotie” at the Stark-Conde Winery.  Reminiscent of Shepherd’s Pie, it is a baked dish of curried minced beef and turmeric rice topped with a bay leaf infused custard on top.  It was served with tomato and onion salad and homemade chutney.  Delicious! 

For dessert, the Waterford Estate offered us chocolate and wine pairings. 

Maybe saving the best for last, the Meerlust Wine Estate established in 1756, gave us a taste of their renowned Rubicon Wine. 

Back to the port, we strolled around the lively at V & A Waterfront, finding local tribe dancers, shopping, art galleries and restaurants along the marina.  The perfect place to people watch as the sun set.

We awoke to our second day in Cape Town filled with sunshine and temperatures in the mid 70’s.  A perfect day to tour the vast area via Hop On Hop Off Sightseeing bus. Our morning route took us through downtown’s Long Street, the convention center, the historic Mount Nelson Hotel, District 6, gorgeous views of Devil’s Peak, the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, and the University of Cape Town.  

For lunch, we had a delicious outdoor lunch overlooking the picturesque landscape of Groot Constantia; my favorite King Klip fish and mussels for Tom. 

The scenic afternoon route encircled Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles, giving every angle imaginable of this prominent landmark. 

The coastal beauty and upscale neighborhoods of Hout Bay and Camps Bay are great places to linger, so we found a café overlooking the beach to soak it all in.

Continuing onward were residential areas of Clifton, Bantry Bay, Sea Point, Three Anchor Bay, Mouille Point, past the Cape Town stadium and finally, back to the port.   

We were glad to have two days in Cape Town, and yet still there is so much more to see for next time!

Fifty miles offshore of Walvis Bay, Namibia, we awoke to thick fog surrounding Zuiderdam and hear  her bellowing horn every 3 minutes.   Playful seals escorted our ship for remaining miles as we neared the harbor entrance for our 11am expected arrival.  By the time we docked, the fog had lifted, and spotty areas of blue sky were peeking through. 

We had such a great time here last year, that we couldn’t wait to contact John “Robby” Robinson once again for another Sandwich Harbour dune experience in the Namib Naukluft Park.  Nine of us met him and fellow drivers Glenn and Hennie to follow the shoreline 50 miles to the sweeping dunescapes of Namibia.

It is the only place on Earth where towering dunes plummet straight into the ocean.  At low tide, the exposed beach area in front of the dunes is just wide enough for a vehicle. The perfect place to celebrate Tom’s birthday today!

Leaving the suburban neighborhoods of Walvis Bay behind, we transit through the vast, pink salt lakes and flats. Walvis Bay alone produces over 900,000 tons of salt annually. 

South of the salt flats, the coastal shore is a marine sanctuary teeming with flamingos, cormorants and grebes.  An occasional seal rests on the beach.

From there, the topography begins to change.  Small mound dunes and scrub vegetation provide home to our sightings of oryx, springbok, jackal and even a shovel-snouted lizard. 

If you’re wondering (like us) how this vegetation grows in the desert, Hennie shared that there is actually fresh water beneath these sand dunes from natural underground aquifers.  Water seeps through the dunes creating a unique wetland ecosystem, despite the arid desert surroundings and supports vegetation and wildlife in the area.

And taking a closer look at the sand in Sandwich Harbour (macro photo below), we found that it reveals a kaleidoscope of colors!   Minerals like dolomite, sodalite, quartz, feldspar and mica, as well as iron oxide, which gives the sand its reddish hues.   The heavier iron oxide remains settled in and near the shoreline, and the dune becomes more golden in height.

Maybe the biggest surprise was coming across a human skull and bones being uncovered by the wind.  Hennie explained that they were from old burial grounds. The Park had been contacted to ask whether they should be reburied, but the reply was no, that they would allow nature to take its course.    

But all that science aside, the most thrilling thing about the dunes is riding them like a roller coaster! 

Back down on the windswept beach, our guides quickly set up an ‘elegant’ lunch complete with oysters on the half-shell, grilled fish, chicken, quiche, oryx kabobs, sausages, spring rolls, sweets and champagne.  They even brought Tom birthday cupcakes!  –what a birthday celebration it was!

Robby, Glen and Hennie expertly navigated the shifting sands, knew when to accelerate and kept an eye on tides to allow our safe return.  We thoroughly enjoyed the beauty, adventure and Tom’s birthday celebration in Namibia! 

For spectacular aerial photos and more information on the dunes:  https://www.sandwich-harbour.com/

From here, Zuiderdam will navigate 3,100 miles over the next six days at sea to reach the Cape Verde and Canary Islands before turning inland at Gibraltar to explore the Mediterranean.  Stay tuned!

Sri Lanka, once known as Ceylon, is an island nation of 22 million people located off the southeast coast of India.  Zuiderdam docks in Colombo, the capital and largest city, for our days visit. 

We pushed through the barrage of taxi and Tuk Tuk drivers at the port gate, who were tenaciously offering tours.  Anticipating this from previous visits here, we had pre-arranged a private, 4-hour Tuk Tuk tour via Viator.com. Our driver, Obama, was waiting for us at the Kingsbury Hotel at 9am and took us around the entire city; old and new. 

A Tuk Tuk ride is a wonderful experience; adventurous, stinky, noisy, and exhilarating, especially amongst the tight quarters of trucks, motorcycles carrying 4 people, scooters carrying cages of chickens, etc.  What better way to soak in the sights, sounds and smells of this boisterous city.

This video will give you a glimpse of our navigation through the marketplace:

Along the way, we drank fresh coconuts, enjoyed coffee tastings (Arabica, Robusto, and a local favorite, ginger coffee) as well as Ceylon tea tastings (white, golden red, soursop, mango and spice).  And no market visit would be complete without a stop at a spice vendor.  Cinnamon is native to Sri Lanka, and one of the many spice exports. 

Locals with monkeys on a leash, snake charmers…yes, they are a real thing at tourist spots here.  

The smog of the city hangs in the morning air, as the temperatures reach almost 90.  Traffic lanes are merely a suggestion to the wide variety of moving vehicles and horns are tooted liberally and often.

Popular sites on our route included the Old Parliament Building, Independence Square, Viharamahadevi Park, Clock Tower, the floating Pettah Market, the Lotus Tower, Beira Lake, the Manning Market, the lighthouse, the maritime museum and many more.  

There are many temples, shrines and mosques throughout the city, providing sanctuary in this bustling city.  Buddhists form the majority here, but Muslims, Christians and Hindus also call Colombo their home. Below, is the Sri Kaileswaram Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Colombo:

The Gangaramaya Temple contains the most eclectic museum collections within.  Our guide explained that the treasure trove of antique items are gifts and offerings sent from all over the world.  Innumerable numbers of Buddha statues, old watches, coins, cameras, china, furniture, elephant tusks and even old cars are on display.

The Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, built in 1909, is a stunning architectural spectacle:

Obama took us to a local restaurant called the Curry Pot for an authentic Sri Lankan lunch of rice, curry chicken, Chinese potatoes, a cilantro/coconut/lime salad and cooked mango.  Silverware was optional and had to be requested, as locals commonly eat with their right hands.  Obama was fasting for Ramadan, so he waited outside. 

In 2019, a land reclamation project was completed on the shores of Colombo, funded by the Chinese.  Since then, the continuation of The Port City Colombo Project has been underway since and continues to take shape.  A series of new facilities are planned, including a central park, an artificial beach, a sports training center, a marina and a footbridge.

We asked Obama to drop us off at the Ministry of Crab Restaurant, where we enjoyed a coconut crème brulee and refreshments before heading back to the commercial port gate on foot. 

Zuiderdam sails just over 400 miles to reach The Maldives island group, consisting of 1,192 low-lying coral islands grouped in a double chain of 26 atolls.  It spans a territory of roughly 35,000 square miles, but a land area of only 115 square miles.   Our ship will anchor just off of Malé, which is the largest island and its capital.

First-time visitors are surprised to learn that the urban density in Malé is greater than 60,000 people per square mile!  And therefore, most tourists head to one of the many nearby atolls for the idyllic island serenity they seek.   

A group of us took a 15-minute speedboat ride to the Adaaran Prestige Vadoo Resort Island, complete with blinding-white sandy beaches, turquoise lagoons, overwater bungalows and manicured grounds.

Our day pass provided us with several hours of exploring, swimming in their pool, snorkeling their reef and lounging in the shade. It was an indulgent day of luxury and an all-inclusive experience.

Another 1,260 miles south brings us across the equator and to Mahé, the largest island in the Seychelles.   Unlike the low-lying coral atolls of the Maldives, many of the 115 Seychelle islands are made of granite, with towering peaks and lush forests.  

The town of Victoria has charming markets and colonial style buildings.  Adding to the ambience are the languages of French, Creole and English heard everywhere we go. 

We joined a group of fellow snorkelers to tour the island, it’s beaches and waters. 

Unfortunately, a recent cyclone had left the waters pretty murky for snorkeling, but we sure enjoyed the drive, learning more about this laid-back island nation.

As well as it’s laid-back tortoises!

Two days at sea gains Zuiderdam another 1,000 nautical miles to Port Louis, Mauritius.  Home to 147,000 people, it’s a melting pot of Indian, African, Chinese and French influences, reflected in its cuisine, architecture and culture. Mauritius was also home to the now extinct Dodo bird, and whose image appears on everything from the national flag to their locally brewed beer label.

Located on the islands’ northwest side, Port Louis is the capital and largest city but appeared to be a deserted town on a Sunday morning. 

Even the local park was void of people, except for a curious green gecko and the entire tree canopy was filled with fruit bats and squawking birds.

Until we came upon the din of the Central Market, where an old two-story building housing hundreds of vendors sold everything from linens, woven baskets, housewares upstairs; produce and spices downstairs.  

If you couldn’t find what you were looking for there, the next 4 blocks of storefronts in any direction would fill in the gaps.  Shoes, apparel, appliances, textiles, etc.   Authentic local shopping in full force. 

By afternoon, the Caudan Waterfront, a modern shopping plaza with hotels, boutiques and eateries had become the hotspot.  Locals and Zuiderdam passengers alike milled about. 

Mauritius was a short, but pleasant stop!

La Possession, Reunion Island     While only 134 miles separate Mauritius and Reunion Islands, they have vastly different personalities. 

This French overseas territory is 39 miles long by 28 miles wide.  Within are beaches on the west coast, an active volcano in the south and rugged mountains and forests in the middle. 

Nine of us piled into 2 vehicles for a 5-hour outing to see its dramatic landscapes and rugged terrain, dodging the intermittent rain.  Last week’s cyclone here washed out some of the roads to our north, so we headed south. 

Quaint beach towns were quiet on this wet day, but that didn’t curb our enthusiasm as we strolled the boardwalks, poked into shops and took photos of the dramatic coastline. 

Just as the rain went from drizzle to pouring, we pulled into Ete Indien Restaurant for a nice meal.  Most ordered the specialty of the house, “Bol Renversé”,  a local favorite that is a unique fusion of Chinese and Creole cuisine. Bol Renversé translates to “Upside-Down Bowl,” is a delicious combination of stir-fried vegetables, meat or seafood, and rice, served in an inverted bowl presentation, topped with a fried egg.

Despite the rain, we made one more stop before returning to the port, Le Zinc Pub.   It was St. Patrick’s Day after all!   

Zuiderdam now pushes on towards the African coastline… Stay tuned!