Category: 2026 World Cruise

Sometimes the best travel days are the ones you never planned.

When a developing tropical cyclone cancelled our scheduled stop in Tonga, we suddenly found ourselves with a bonus day in Auckland, New Zealand. With an extra day there, ten of us hopped aboard a half-hour ferry from Auckland, bound for beautiful Waiheke Island.

Our local guide Darren met us at the dock in the small village. The island’s permanent population is only about 10,000, but in season it can swell to 35,000 as vacationing Kiwis flock here for beaches, watersports, and—perhaps most famously—the vineyards.

Roughly 30 boutique wineries are scattered across 36 square miles of rugged, hilly terrain, producing excellent Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.

It was a sunny, breezy day in the low 60s as we climbed into Darren’s van and set off along the island’s dramatic coastline. Between scenic overlooks he shared stories of the island’s history and what life is like for locals.

Our afternoon included four winery stops. First was Casita Miro, a delightfully quirky spot with Barcelona influences—whimsical gardens and pathways decorated with colorful mosaic tiles. https://www.casitamiro.co.nz/

Next came Batch Winery, the island’s highest vineyard, with sweeping views over the Hauraki Gulf. We happily sampled their wines while nibbling on generous platters of meats, cheeses and vegetables. https://www.batchwinery.com/

Then on to Postage Stamp Wines, a rustic countryside winery where we relaxed in a humble backyard oasis surrounded by lavender, dahlias, and fruit trees—kefir lime, mandarin and olives. They also keep bees and produce their own honey. https://postagestampwines.co.nz/

Our final stop was the well-known Mudbrick Winery & Restaurant, where beanbag chairs dotted the hillside, inviting visitors to lounge with a glass of wine while taking in the panoramic views. It’s easy to see why this beautiful setting is also a popular wedding venue.  https://mudbrick.co.nz/

Our visit to Waiheke Island was wonderful—and clearly deserving of a longer stay next time.

We ferried back to Auckland around dinner and found pizza along the waterfront, overlooking the marina filled with impressive sailboats and motor yachts. Including Sea Eagle, a 265-foot-long, 3 masted superyacht. We read that it is the world’s largest aluminum sailing yacht (as of 2020). For perspective, the 2 full-size teak Adirondak chairs on the lower aft platform look like dollhouse furnishings!

For Day 2 in Auckland, Tom and I set out to explore on foot. On a cool, breezy morning we headed uphill to Albert Park, and adjacent University of Auckland, where students were returning for the fall semester. They sure do need nicer diploma frames in their bookstore–just saying.

From there we passed the nearby Sky Tower, standing 1,072 feet tall, before continuing on to the historic and upscale Ponsonby district for lunch at a charming café.

Later we wandered back toward the marina and wharf area, buzzing with preparations for the upcoming Auckland Boat Show.

After nearly eight miles on foot, we returned to the ship tired but happy…another memorable day exploring beautiful Auckland. If we hadn’t been so worn out, we might have stayed awake to watch the complete lunar eclipse that evening, as Volendam sailed along the New Zealand coastline northward 177 miles to the Bay of Islands.   

In the stillness of dawn, our ship anchored just offshore of the small towns of Paihia and Russell. For this half-day stop, we ferried less than two miles between the towns to get a feel for each one.

We strolled through farmers markets and artisan craft barns, enjoyed coffee by the water, and stopped for seafood chowder.

Ferries and small boats kept a steady parade moving along the shoreline, giving the towns a constant hum of activity.

The afternoon sailaway was scenic. Volendam passed dozens of sailboats and navigated among small islands and rocky outcroppings before reaching open water. We followed the coastline north to New Zealand’s tip, then turned west for a two-day crossing of the Tasman Sea.

As we ate dinner, we watched the coastline fade behind us and thought ahead to the next stretch of our journey….Australia.

The city lights reflect on the water in Sydney’s 5am darkness, as Volendam glides past the iconic Opera House and ducks beneath the Harbour Bridge enroute to her berth. 

By 8:15am, we had cleared immigration and boarded a shuttle bus from White Bay to Sydney’s city center. Sydney’s public transportation is accessible and clean, making it easy to get around over the next two days by ferry, tram or bus.

Having explored Sydney pretty thoroughly during previous visits, we chose to take a 20-minute ferry to Watson’s Bay. As the seaside town opened for the day, cafes set up umbrellas while seagulls grabbed croissants from plates.  

Taking advantage of the cool morning, we hiked up the upper ridge, enjoying breathtaking views from the cliffs down to the rocks below.

As we followed the trail north, we reached the Hornby Lighthouse, which I’d painted a few years back. The sweeping view featured a Saturday regatta, with dozens of sailboats showing off their colorful spinnakers as they sailed downwind.

When we returned to the town center, we were fortunate to grab the last table right by the water at Doyle’s Restaurant—a well-known spot for fish and chips. We shared a very generous lunch serving before catching the ferry back to Circular Quay.

From there, we took another ferry to Milson’s Point across Sydney Harbor, then walked over the Sydney Bridge, ending up at The Rocks for refreshments and people watching.

That evening, we had dinner on board the Volendam, just as rain showers started to loom in the forecast.

Sydney Day 2:  As periods of rain continued in the forecast, we opted to visit the Sydney Maritime Museum in Darling Harbour.   While the rain held off, we toured the 389-foot destroyer ship HMAS Vampire, and the 295 ft submarine HMAS Onslow, both tied to the docks. 

After window shopping in the historic Queen Victoria Building and a late lunch nearby, we returned to the ship. 

At sunset, Volendam’s horns blast their farewell to Sydney as we sailed out of the Harbor.  Reaching open water, she turned north into 30 knots of wind and several meter swells.   We’ll follow the coastline up for 2 days to Townsville. 

Townsville – Hot and muggy, but with the overnight rain finally moving out, we set off on a six-mile walkabout along The Strand, a beautiful waterfront promenade that stretches along the shoreline.

Along the way, small green parrots and large black cockatoos, all noisily squawked our arrival.

We stopped to chat with a few fishermen casting from the pier. They had seven rods lined up in hopeful anticipation of barramundi, flathead, or even sharks. Unfortunately, there was no action while we were there, but spirits remained high.

Nearby, standing in the water, was the striking The Ocean Siren by Jason deCaires Taylor. The sculpture subtly shifts color based on daily water temperature data, serving as both art installation and a quiet warning about warming seas and the threat of them to Great Barrier Reef corals. My daytime photo is on the left and illuminated version is courtesy of Museum of Underwater Art.

From The Strand, we wandered a few blocks inland through quiet residential streets, admiring the classic Queenslander-style homes with their raised structures and breezy verandas.

From just about anywhere in Townsville, the pink granite Castle Hill dominates the scene.

Lunch brought us into the central business district, where beautiful old architecture surrounded us.

We made our way back to the ship through green parklands, busy marinas, and even a few lively public waterparks—a full and satisfying day in Townsville.

A 200-mile overnight passage further north, we reached Cairns in the Coral Sea.

Having visited Cairns before, we thought we would discover the natural beauty of the Kuranda rainforest. Instead of the popular tourist route involving train rides and cable cars to reach its elevation, we rented a car and drove ourselves. The road wound steadily upward in a series of serpentine turns, eventually delivering us to the charming village of Kuranda.

Set among the trees, the Kuranda markets felt more like a forest hideaway than a shopping area, with artisan stalls, small boutiques, and cafés tucked beneath the canopy.

One highlight was the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary, where we wandered among an impressive collection of butterflies.

From there, we continued north to the upscale seaside village of Palm Cove. Towering melaleuca trees shaded the esplanade, and a light breeze off the water helped take the edge off the tropical heat. Lunch was a delicious nasi goreng, enjoyed at a relaxed pace in this laid-back setting.

Darwin – With a population of about 122,000, Darwin is known as the lightning capital of the world, famously recording over 91,000 strikes in a 24-hour period during a Christmas storm in 2018. Sitting just 10 degrees south of the equator, it’s no surprise the weather is hot and humid.

To make the most of our day, we hopped on a Hop On/Hop Off bus and made several stops, including over an hour at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. The exhibits were varied and fascinating, covering everything from Aboriginal history to science displays and maritime artifacts.

A particularly memorable section detailed the devastation of Cyclone Tracy in 1974.  And there was also a special display honoring “Sweetheart”, a 1700-pound, almost 17-foot saltwater croc that had been attacking aluminum dinghies back in the 1970’s. They estimated that he was between 50-80 years of age.   

The waterfront area is lively, filled with restaurants and anchored by a large man-made lagoon—safe from stingers, crocodiles, and sharks (a reassuring feature in this part of the world!).

Darwin also offers expansive green spaces, parks, and esplanades. In a few areas, we even spotted wallabies lounging in the shade, seemingly unfazed by passing visitors.

We even spotted a pair of owls as we strolled back to the ship. Darwin was an enjoyable visit!

Looking Ahead: Volendam now sets her course for colorful Indonesia, and we’re looking forward to the next chapter of this journey. Stay tuned!

Easter Island –  Mythical, mysterious and exotic, the 900 moai statues on Easter Island (aka Rapa Nui) have stood on this island for centuries and will continue to be a source of wonder for generations to come. 

Our visit this time, was less about the iconic moai and more about the spirit of the island itself. Having previously toured the archaeological sites and explored the national park, we longed for a more inward, local experience. We reconnected with our friends Dani and her Rapa Nui–born husband, Toroko, whom we had met last year, and asked them to help us see their home through a different lens.

We arrived just as the island was recovering from its annual Tapati Rapa Nui Festival, which ended the night before. For two vibrant weeks, the island celebrates its heritage through artistry, sports, music, and friendly competition between two rival “camps”. The winning camp crowns their festival queen who represents the island for the coming year. One of the festival highlights is a parade of handcrafted floats adorned with intricate wood carvings and stone sculptures.

Dani and Toroko introduced us to several local artists in their homes and workshops. We saw firsthand the chisels, the sawdust, the half-finished carvings, and the quiet pride in their work. Some had been creating for two months in anticipation of the festival. It was a privilege to witness not only the finished art, but the process—the patience and devotion that keeps Rapa Nui traditions alive.

Being it a Sunday, we also joined Dani and Toroko to their church service. In South Pacific congregations, singing is not a gentle accompaniment…it is a full-bodied expression of faith. Voices rose strong and unrestrained, filling the small sanctuary.

Though we did not understand a single word of the sermon or the hymns, the music transcended language. It reached us, lifted us, and reminded us that connection is not always about comprehension.  Click below to hear our audio recording.

It was truly wonderful to experience a day in the life of a Rapa Nui!

Pitcairn Island – Officially a British Overseas Territory, though New Zealand appears to be its primary lifeline. Thousands of miles of open ocean surround this tiny 2-by-1-mile island, home to about 45 people. It’s about as remote as it gets.

The island is steep-to, with neither a protected harbor nor any place to land tenders. So instead, the islanders come to us. For several hours, while MS Volendam slowly circumnavigates and hovers offshore, we’re treated to spectacular island views as their longboat made its way alongside and unloads.

About half the population descends from the mutineers of the HMS Bounty, and during this visit we met 22 of them as they came aboard bearing gifts of fresh fish, small pineapples, local produce, and their ubiquitous breadfruit. They also brought beautifully handcrafted items—carved wood, bone, and shell pieces—along with t-shirts, caps, postcards and other keepsakes.

This was our fifth visit to this remarkable island, and some faces have become familiar. Andrew Christian, a seventh-generation grandson of Fletcher Christian, is one of them. Each time, I purchase a wooden bowl or platter from him. He thanks me for my repeat business, but honestly, I’m all too happy to obtain such a unique treasure.

The Mayor of Pitcairn and the Captain of Volendam exchanged commemorative plaques on the main stage, followed by an hour-long presentation from another seventh-generation resident. Her PowerPoint offered a fascinating glimpse into life on a very small island: rainwater collection, homegrown vegetables, abundant fresh seafood, hens for eggs, generators for electricity when needed, and a supply ship that arrives just four times a year. They have one doctor and one nurse. Two years ago, Starlink was installed. There’s a one-house school for primary students; after that, children are sent to New Zealand to continue their education. Life is simple. The people are resourceful and resilient.

Before departing, the entire entourage gathered on stage to sing their favorite hymn in strong, resounding voices, followed by a farewell song that left few dry eyes in the house.

In addition to the $5,000 check Volendam presented to the Pitcairn community, we filled their longboat with supplies—food, toiletries, beverages, even ice cream—before they headed back to their small harbor.

It was an immersive and inspirational six-hour “excursion” to an island we never actually set foot on, and yet, one of the best ever!

Tahiti, French Polynesia At dawn, the Captain deftly maneuvers the Volendam through the narrow cut in the reef, barely wide enough for our beam. Once safely inside the lagoon, she swings to port and settles into her spot along the downtown dock in Papeete. The city is already stirring on this Saturday morning.

The aroma of coffee and freshly baked baguettes hangs in the air as we stroll a few blocks to the Avis Rental Car counter, where our spiffy little Peugeot awaits. Tahiti’s “ring road” makes for an easy 80-mile circumnavigation of this magnificent island. Jagged emerald peaks tumble dramatically to black-sand beaches and sparkling blue seas. It truly feels like heaven on earth.

Beachside parking lots are already filling with local families settling in for a leisurely day off. Volleyball nets are strung, outrigger canoes carried down to the shoreline, and the women unpack enough food to feed an army. It’s joyful, communal, and wonderfully unhurried.

At Faarumai Waterfalls—known locally as Trois Cascades—the three waterfalls are breathtaking, each cascade creating its own cool downdraft of wind. Lush bamboo and flowering vegetation thrive in the constant mist.

We returned to the simple lunch spot we discovered last year—nothing fancy, just a sand floor, toes nearly in the water, and the best tuna tartare you’ve ever tasted.

Our final stop was a visit to the elegant InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, where overwater bungalows, a spectacular pool and beachfront amenities define South Pacific luxury.

With our departure not scheduled until 3 a.m., we had the rare treat of experiencing Papeete by night. At sunset, we rendezvoused with a small group of friends at a rooftop hotel overlooking the harbor, watching the sky melt from gold to indigo as the harbor lights flickered to life.

A perfect day in paradise—morning to night.

Moorea, French Polynesia As if Tahiti could be outdone, its sister island is certainly no shrinking flower! Only 11 miles separate these two idyllic twins, and they share much of the same dramatic topography—jagged green peaks rising sharply from impossibly blue seas.

But instead of touring the mountaintops, we chose to discover what lies beneath the surface.

A shipmate friend arranged a snorkel excursion for twelve of us, and soon we were plunging into crystalline turquoise waters, swimming alongside sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, and what felt like an entire armada of eagle rays gliding gracefully below us.

The prevalent purple-blue coral created a vivid backdrop for expansive patches of healthy staghorn coral, while swaying fingers of anemone sheltered the clownfish. Pacific triggerfish darted past, Moorish idols with their banners trailing, and schools of damselfish shimmered in the shafts of sunlight.

Lunch was at a casual beachside restaurant specializing in fresh tuna, accompanied by one of the most spectacular turquoise panoramas imaginable. It was almost too brilliant to be real.

Bora Bora – Our third stunning port in as many days, and somehow each island continues to raise the bar.

Once again, our merry band of snorkelers climbed aboard a local outrigger-style boat for a circumnavigation of Bora Bora’s inner fringe reef.

Four separate stops, each with its own personality: small reef sharks cruising lazily, graceful rays gliding past, vibrant coral gardens, and dreamy sandy “swimming pools” in waters so turquoise-teal they hardly seemed real.

Here (pronounced Harry), our local guide, not only kept us refreshed with cold beverages but also served up beautiful platters of fresh fruit and vegetables. As if that weren’t enough, he serenaded us with his ukulele while we drifted in paradise.

Yes, we all absorbed a bit too much sun, but the fun never stopped. We returned to the Volendam glowing (in more ways than one), eagerly anticipating cool freshwater showers before gathering again on deck for a festive sail-away into the sunset.

Our next scheduled port was Kingdom of Tonga, some 1,350 miles west…right where a tropical cyclone was brewing. To avoid the storm and its 30-foot waves, our trusty captain announced that MS Volendam would skip Tonga and instead, set a southwesterly course straight for Auckland. So, onward to New Zealand! More adventures to come…

My sincere thanks to all the contributing photographers of this blog:  Brad, Jo, Kathy, Martha, Mel, Patrick and Tom.

Volendam makes her way northward from the Antarctic, slicing through the notorious Drake Passage.  Its reputation runs deep with sailors, as wicked conditions typically rule this latitude, with mountainous seas, screaming winds and fierce currents.  But sometimes not.  We were fortunate to find our 705-mile passage to be moderate, with only two days of 12-15 ft seas and winds hovering around 30 kts.  “Happy Days”, as our Captain would say.   

Our destination is Patagonia, a geographical region in southern South America that spans parts of Argentina and Chile. It includes the southern portion of the Andes mountain range, featuring lakes, fjords, rainforests, and glaciers in the west, with deserts and flatlands toward the east. The region is hemmed by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, and several waterways that connect them, including the Strait of Magellan, the Beagle Channel, and the Drake Passage to the south.

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina, whose claim to fame is the southernmost city on the planet and often considered “the end of the world”.  It is also the launching point for those going on excursion ships to Antarctic, as well to those flocking here to explore the Andes Mountains and Patagonia. The town of about 82,000 people is a haven of hostels for backpackers and nature enthusiasts. 

The scenery here is hard to beat and once ashore, we headed for the Tierra del Fuego National Park, a massive 4,550 square-mile sanctuary that opened in 1960.  And yet only 3% of this park is open to the public; the rest is used for environmental and scientific studies of this sub-Antarctic forest and coastline along the Beagle Channel.

In addition to the incredible scenery of snow-capped mountains, crystal clear lakes and the cleanest air you might ever breathe, it is also the very end of the Pan American Highway. Lapataia Bay marks the end of the Highway—an 11,185-mile journey from Alaska.

Ensenada Bay, with lovely views over the Beagle Channel and the Andes Mountains…as well as home to the southernmost Post Office (below).

The Beagle Channel links the Atlanta and Pacific Oceans and is a continuation of the stunning landscape in this region.  Volendam threads her way through the labyrinth of waterways as we pass by 5 glacier runs and many waterfalls.  Being their summer, daylight is from 5am to 11pm, affording an almost endless IMAX experience any direction you look.

As we cross into Chilean waters, I thought you might enjoy a few notable facts about this remarkable country:

• Chile is the world’s longest country, with 4,000 miles of coastline
• Mountains cover 80% of the country.   
• Salmon farming is major industry
• Copper and Lithium producer.
• 200 days of rain/yr. 
• 1/3 of all volcanos in the world are found in Chile.
• About 10,000 earthquakes annually, with about 1,800 reaching a magnitude of 4 or higher each year.

Our next port was Punta Arenas, Chile – the heartland of Patagonia.   A beautiful but blustery 50 degree day begins with a stride against a stiff wind, uphill for a panoramic view of the entire city of 132,000 people.   Adjacent to the lookout, we step into a charming café to warm ourselves with a hot cup of coffee and linger over the view.  

We came upon the Plaza de Armas, where vendors, street performers and tourists made a lively scene.  Other highlights of our walk included visiting the Museo Naval Austral, and the park-like Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun, where mature cypress tree “canyons” have stood against decades of strong winds. 

Our friend Jo told us not to miss “the best hot chocolate she’s ever had” at the Le Chocolatier. She was right! 

Eventually, we gravitated back to the wharf area, where we found a group of friends already sampling local ales. We thoroughly enjoyed our 7-mile walking exploration of this wonderful and clean city. 

Puerto Montt –  is the capital of the Los Lagos region of Chile and known as the gateway to the country’s glacial lakes, volcanic landscapes and surrounding national parks.  A group of 19 of us chartered a bus to explore Puerto Varas, Frutillar & Petrohue Falls.

We headed for Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, a 1-hour drive through countryside that looks a lot like Wisconsin (aside from the volcano!).

A short walk though thickly wooded forest led us to the Petrohue River and its Waterfalls, pouring over volcanic rock. 

The snow-capped cone of Osorno Volcano stands in the distance.  Its last eruption was in 2015, spewing ashes almost 2 miles high! 

Our guide, Ignasio, was a wonderful host and during our roadside break, served us homemade empanadas and local wine. 

From there we head south to Puerto Varas, a 100-year-old German settlement on the shores of Llanquihue Lake, which stretches 22 miles long.  

The German influenced architecture and the distant snow-capped peaks of Mt. Calbuco and Mt. Tronador, make you feel like you’re in Bavaria, rather than Chile.  

The adjacent small town of Frutillar is a lakeside resort town with plenty of artisans and more German charm.     

It was a fantastic day, sharing sights, tastes and memories with friends!

San Antonio, Chile (Valparaiso) –  Volendam docks in the industrial port of San Antonio, the gateway to either Santiago or Valparaiso. We chose the latter.   Our friend Jo arranged a tour for 7 of us, which began with a 1.5-hour drive, passing through industrial areas, countryside and eventually, a panoramic coastal drive to the upscale resort town of Vina del Mar, a suburb of Valparaiso.  Our first stop was the iconic floral clock.  On the steep bluff beyond, stands the Cerro Castillo—summer palace of the Presidents of the Republic.   

From there, we continued to Valparaíso. We began in the lower town, El Plan, near the busy port. Plaza Sotomayor anchors this area, flanked by the imposing Naval Headquarters and the striking Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, a tribute to Chile’s maritime history.

An antique funicular carried us up into Los Cerros, and the hills that define Valparaíso’s character. The city spills dramatically over 42 hills, its narrow lanes lined with an eclectic mix of grand old mansions, weathered homes, and humble shacks.

Every available surface seems to serve as a canvas. Vivid street art and murals splash across walls, stairways, and alleyways.

Our midday stop was a charming little B&B with an intimate garden patio where lunch was served. It felt like a hidden oasis…until it wasn’t.

Unfortunately, there was a wolf among us. As we rose to leave after lunch, two of us realized we were missing personal items. My small pouch—containing my camera, phone, one credit card, and a few small bills—was gone. A fellow passenger’s entire wallet and phone had also disappeared.

I immediately asked Tom to check his Life360 app, which tracks my phone’s location. He showed the map to our waiter, who suddenly exclaimed, “I know where this is!” He grabbed Tom’s phone and dashed out the door, with Tom and our guide close behind.

They tracked the signal to an apartment building a few blocks away. After buzzing several units, someone let them in. Police soon arrived and searched the apartments of residents who agreed to cooperate. Others were either unoccupied or didn’t respond. While Life360 narrowed the signal to that building, it couldn’t pinpoint the exact apartment—and the phone’s ringer was left in silent mode. Despite everyone’s valiant efforts, our belongings had vanished into thin air. Darn it.

Naturally, we immediately canceled the credit cards and shut down my phone. In the end, it’s more of an inconvenience than catastrophe—but I’m still annoyed at myself for letting my guard down for even five minutes. Travel is full of lessons… and this was one of them.

Other than that unfortunate episode, our journey continues to be nothing short of extraordinary. And now, we’re turning our sights toward the next chapter: The South Pacific Islands.

Leaving Uruguay, Volendam set her course for the Falkland Islands, a 2-day passage.  The archipelago is made up of over 700 islands, with West and East Falkland being the largest.  Our destination is Port Stanley, the capital and major town on East Falkland.  

The human population of roughly 3,500 is easily outnumbered by the cows, sheep and penguins that call this place home.  We have a small weather window that will allow us to visit for the day before strong winds will make the harbor untenable by evening.  

Our tour begins in Port Stanley with a 2.5 hour drive aboard 4×4 Land Rovers across the rugged terrain to Volunteer Point and its inhabitants….King, Gentoo and Magellanic penguins!   Rockhopper and Marconi Penguins can be found elsewhere in the Falklands as well.

As we arrived, a small group of King penguins had just come ashore.  We walked freely with them as they waddled inland 100 yards to join their colony of a thousand or more.

Numerous Magellanic and Gentoo Penguin parents and their babies were also on hand, keeping close to their burrows, as sheep grazed in the neighborhood.

At this time of year, parents are either tending to their recently hatched and mostly naked babies or teaching young fledglings who are in the process of losing their downy feathers.   

The cooing, honking and whistling of this entire colony was quite a symphony!   It was an extraordinary experience to be among these incredible creatures in their natural habitat.

Back in Port Stanely, we had a couple hours to wander the small town.  Its few highlights included the Government House, Falklands War Memorial, Museum and Christ Church, the southernmost Anglican cathedral with notable Whalebone Arch. 

By the time we bought tee shirts and enjoyed a locally crafted pint, the winds had churned the harbor waves into a spumy froth. 

Volendam’s tenders struggled against 30-35 knot winds, causing a temporary pause in service.  Those standing in tender queue were nearly taken off their feet by the wind. Coach buses (and hot chocolate!) had been brought in to shelter those still ashore, until winds subsided a tad and service resumed.  Eventually, all were aboard and the Captain was happy to weigh anchor and head for open ocean again.   

But the winds were just getting started as Volendam headed into the nighttime hours (which incidentally are daylight at this latitude). Crossing the 60 degrees south latitude, we officially enter Antarctic waters.  Volendam cuts through the 12 to15-foot seas riddled with white caps whipped up from nearly 40 knot winds. Nevertheless, movement on the ship is quite tolerable, as her deep keel and stabilizers maintain a fairly steady and level ride.  The evening and all through the next day, however, fog and rain kept us from viewing too much scenery other than wind-streaked waves. 

An Ice Pilot and an Expedition Team joined the ship in Port Stanley and would be delivering presentations on a wide variety of topics of Antarctica; science, history, inhabitants (animal and human), as well as pointing out wildlife along the way.  This is Ian’s 25th expedition trip to Antarctica and Vonda’s 16th. They will remain aboard 8 days until we reach Ushuaia, Argentina.

We didn’t have to wait long until Ian announced the first sighting of a humpback whale off the starboard bow!   Over the next few days of scenic cruising, our eyes would also be peeled for potential sightings of minke and killer whales, fur and leopard seals, as well as gentoo, chinstrap and adelie penguins. 

Captain Van Eerten, Ice Pilot Joan and the entire team on the Navigation Bridge remained on high alert, navigating these polar waters, dodging ice bergs and watching for brash ice and or fog closing in on us. 

They routed Volendam deftly through tricky fiords, disappearing harbors, ice-riddled sounds and shifting channels, all the while seeking blue skies.  And boy, did they deliver!  The conditions were nearly perfect for the next three days as we plied the waters of the Gerlache Strait, Wilhelmina Bay, Cuverville Iland, Paradise Bay, Bryde Island, Wiencke Island, Neumyaer Channel and finally, Palmer Station. 

Majestic. Radiant. Breath-taking. Awe-inspiring.  Actually, none one of these words seem adequate enough to describe this extraordinary environment.  Words truly fail to describe, and photos simply do not do justice. I think it’s more about the inner emotion that evokes when you’re standing in the presence of Antarctica.  The feeling of absolute joy over the immense – and intense – purity of what you’re seeing, in a quiet world that speaks more loudly than words ever could.

The emotional imprint of Antarctica will last forever, as will images in the mind’s eye.   As far as our “mere mortal” photos go, I’ve included just a sampling of what we took. We will also be sorting through the rest, deleting hundreds of when the camera (or its operator) were a split second too late to capture any whales or penguins!

Our shipmate friend Patrick, 360-degree videoed a unique waterline view of the Volendam in Antarctica waters. Check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1DXn4urqKL/

After 37 days on a southerly heading from Florida, Volendam has arrived at the bottom of the world and now begins a northerly course.  We will cross the notorious Drake Passage, heading for Cape Horn and Patagonia.  Stay tuned!