Category: Travelogues

While growing up, our household seemed to hold every National Geographic magazine ever printed.  I marveled at all the glorious photos trying to imagine life in all those far-flung, exotic places, especially Africa.  Today, some of those pages came to life.   

Two million people live in Mozambique’s largest city of Maputo, and its complex history has been riddled with strife.  Only as recently as 1975 had Mozambique achieved independence from Portugal. However, their broken system continues to struggle. Literacy is only 40%, unemployment is 80% and poverty is widespread. The average life expectancy in 2018 was 48; today it is still only 55.  It’s also a melting pot of many ethnic groups, resulting in 40 languages that are spoken here, though Portuguese is primary.   And in step with ethnic groups, many religions are also worshipped here. 

Our 2.5-mile guided walking tour educated us on the history, economy, and politics of this city, and we learned that similar struggles are also common across Africa’s 55 countries. It is a continent of ‘haves’ and many more ‘have nots’, and sadly, homelessness is prevalent.

Throughout our walk, desperate street vendors were on foot aggressively hawking leather belts, hats, sunglasses, wooden carvings, bead necklaces and bracelets.   Sidewalk vendors were also set up beneath building overhangs selling used shoes, electronics, boiled eggs…pretty much anything that might earn them some money to feed themselves and family. 

The din of the Central Market was buzzing with vendors ready to haggle over everything from fish, cashews, along with the usual produce. 

The oddest category we’ve ever seen in ANY market anywhere, is hair and wigs.  Yep.  Four entire aisles. Such a paradox.

Amidst the gritty downtown, the Railway Station sits like an unlikely jewel and is recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful stations. 

The nearby ruins of the waterfront Fort built in 1721, protected against all invaders, of which there were many.

Once the walking tour ended at the port, we boarded a shuttle bus that took us up the hill to a different section of the city.  Here we found an entirely different Maputo; the ‘haves’, with beautiful roof-top pool hotels, sidewalk cafes and eateries, office buildings, administration headquarters, etc.    

Highly recommended was a visit the FEIMA Handicraft Fair, a large village of co-op artisans.  Acres of shaded paths threaded throughout batik art canvases, woven baskets and purses, wood carvers, cloth, leather goods, as well as outdoor cafes and colorful umbrellas.  The elevation and trees provided breeze and shade, which was a welcomed relief after the blazing heat of the city.   We took a seat to relax and share a panini along with a local ale, Manaca. 

Mozambique was certainly an interesting introduction to the first of ten ports that we will visit on the African continent. To grasp just how enormous this continent is, please take a moment to let this graphic soak in:

Next up was the sprawling city of Durban, the third most populous city in South Africa, home to 3.7 million people (and 250,000 public buses). Another city of many contrasts. For instance, while it is the largest container port in South Africa, it is also flanked by 75 miles of wide, golden sand beaches which are a wonderful backdrop to the many surfing competitions held here.

Unfortunately, due to its large population of impoverished people, local authority instructed tourists not to walk freely about the city.   Anyone going ashore was urged to either take an excursion or stay aboard.  This was underscored by the fact that city officials provided a free shuttle from the cruise port to an adjacent gated, beachfront family amusement area filled with shops, cafes and attractions.  The 10-minute commute made it was clear that the warnings were solid.  The area was rough; both in neighborhood and its inhabitants. 

We opted for a tour that drove us along the north Durban coastline, which is known for South Africa’s sugar cane.  In winter, they burn the cane before processing; it not only chases snakes out of field, but it burns off the leaves and makes the sugar sweeter.  If you didn’t know you were looking at sugar cane, you could have been driving past acres of Wisconsin corn fields! 

Beyond the agricultural region, the shoreline became rocky, and we passed through the Umhlanga Rocks and eventually, Thompson’s Bay, with its tidal pool and Hole in the Wall.    

About 500 miles southwest of Durban is Port Elizabeth, South Africa. We will use this port to drive inland 1.5 hours to the Kwantu Game Reserve https://kwantu.co.za. The high coastal sand dunes fall away as we rise in elevation, soon replaced by rural pastureland with cattle farms and horses.  The Kwantu Lodge is beautifully appointed and upon arrival, were offered coffee, tea, juice, and water with hot appetizers.  Refreshed, we stroll among the onsite ‘bomas’, large natural areas which are fenced.  Lions, tigers, and cheetah, each in separate bomas.  These are animals being rehabbed before being released back into the wild. 

From here, we boarded safari vehicles to head into the bush for a 2.5-hour game drive on their 11,000 acres.

We came across giraffes, 2 rhinos, elephants and their baby, kudzu, many antelope, hippo, zebras and warthogs.  It is absolutely thrilling to be in their natural environment. 

The savannahs offered such panoramic views.  The almost 70-degree temperature played to our advantage in that the animals were more active and out in the open. 

Returning to the Lodge we were treated to song and dance of the Xhosa natives, (of which I was reluctantly recruited!) with a hearty 3pm buffet that followed. 

It was quite a packed 8-hour tour.  We made it back to the ship for last call aboard for passengers and crew, then headed straight to the sail away celebration already in progress. Thank goodness for a restful sea day before we reach Cape Town.

As we near Cape Town, South Africa, we leave the Indian Ocean and enter the Atlantic Ocean waters.  It’s such a pleasure to have two days to explore this cosmopolitan city with its iconic backdrop. On our first day, we are blessed with mainly clear skies in the mid-70’s…perfect for visiting Table Mountain, one of the seven natural wonders in the world.

We boarded a cable car that rotates 360 degrees during the 5 minutes it takes to reach the top.  At the height of 3,560 feet, the view of Cape Town beneath us is breathtaking.   

We know how lucky we are, as clouds often completely obscure the entire mountain.  Locals refer to that as the Table Cloth.   But today we are treated to only the occasional waterfalling clouds over the ragged cliff edge which in itself is very mesmerizing.   

The view in every direction is quite stunning and we spend more than an hour following the circular pathway of the rocky top with sparse, stubborn vegetation. 

Coming back down from the mountain, our next stop is the exquisite Mount Nelson Hotel. Established in 1899, it is known for its High Tea.  And now we know it too…a 3-course, truly scrumptious and elaborate presentation of savories and sweets.  Oh, and tea!  Their own blends, of course. 

Day 2 in Cape Town finds us riding the Hop On/Hop Off bus for city sightseeing, as well as visiting the 330-year-old Constantia Groot Winery, 330 year old winery.  

After the tour, we enjoy a wonderful lunch on their beautiful grounds overlooking the vineyards.  On the menu, was a delicious local fish called Kingklip, a member of the cusk eel family. 

Leaving Cape Town, the Zuiderdam has now travelled 19,613 nautical miles.

Lüderitz:   This old German town lies on the coast of southern Namibia, founded in 1883 after Adolf Lüderitz bought the land from the local Nama chief Joseph Frederiks. In 1909 after the discovery of diamonds in the area, the town grew very fast. As a result, the large majority of their old buildings look like they were plopped down from the Alps into the desert.

Ashore around 9am, the town of 13,000 people is quiet with almost deserted streets.  It feels surreal, little like an abandoned movie set. 

The few main streets are paved, but side streets are all a sandy dirt.   At the edge of town, we could see the low, one-story primary school and hear children singing; their voices hanging in the hot, dry stillness.   

The Lüderitz sign mocks the more famous Hollywood sign.  Sand and rock are everywhere.

The art nouveau Goerke Haus is open for touring and we marvel at how well-preserved the home and it’s furnishings are.  The founding family lived in the house only 2 years. It is now still owned by the diamond company. 

Back onto the main street that borders the shore, we sought sodas and a noon snack at the Portuguese Fish Restaurant.  While waiting for our grilled oysters, we chatted with a South African couple who were seated at an adjacent table.  She was in Namibia to retrieve a copy of her birth certificate so that she could file for dual citizenship (Namibia and South Africa).   In general, the locals were all extremely friendly and eager to chat; curious about us, our ship.  Lüderitz does not receive many cruise ships and they are quite thrilled to have visitors.  

Heading northward up the Namibian coast, our next port is Walvis Bay. Just beyond the port gates, awaits the throngs of hustling locals. 

Yes, the usual characters are on hand; taxis selling tours, handicraft makers trying to convince you to buy their wood carvings, brightly colored fabric goods, baskets, all spread out on tarps laying on the ground.  But for the first time, we also witnessed bare-breasted African Bush women, tinted head to toe by the reddish clay they use to adorn themselves. 

We quickly push through the expanse of hawkers barking their offers and turn the corner to a quiet street that paralleled the coast.  The neighborhood homes were tidy. 

We pass open sports fields and soon come upon a few seaside restaurants and the Walvis Bay Yacht Club.  

While sipping on a cappuccino there, we strike up a conversation with Theo, the former commodore.   He’s a warm and engaging man, well-traveled with more than 5,000 scuba dives logged.  He is 4^th generation Namibian and offers some directional recommendations for our walkabout.   By the time coffees were finished, our mutual rapport lent to our returning later in the afternoon for a cold beverage. 

But first, we ended up walking through town and a few suburbs until we reached the Mall, where our ships shuttle buses would give us a ride back.  It ended up being a walk of just over 7 miles. 

Luanda, Angola   The ships Cruise Director hosts “Port Talks” a few days in advance of each port we visit.  They are informative presentations that provide map locations of where the ship will be moored, interesting places to visit, how to get around, currency information, expected weather forecast, places to find free Wi-Fi and the like.   But when it came to Luanda, it proved challenging to speak about much else other than personal safety, as well as informing us that we would be shuttled to the patrolled town square where we would remain to shop handicrafts from locals. Speaking of currency, conversion here is $1 USD equals $504.80 Angolan Kwanza.

Beyond the equator northward, we reach Takoradi, Ghana. At first glance some folks may be put off by its harsh environment, however while walking around its massive, circular market, we found the friendliest people. 

For our dear crew members, we purchased about 4 cups of hot peppers and about 3 pounds of avocados for $5.  

And in the the most unlikely Menswear store found there, Tom bought a bow tie, matching pocket square and cufflinks for a whopping $8. Back on the pier, I bought colored string artwork from artist Ajud.

Abidjan, Ivory Coast   Abidjan is “categorized by a high level of industrialization and urbanization” according to Wikipedia. The Zuiderdam pulls into the sprawling port where oil refineries and shanty towns can be seen for miles. 

Our next 3 ports of Africa are very poor, with battered infrastructures, resulting in dangerous living conditions. The exchange rate of the West African Franc is $616.36 to $1.00 USD.

Due to heightened security, the port arranged the opening of a very controlled, claustrophobic crafts market for the passengers.

The art was interesting, but our visit was short.

Arriving to the shores of The Gambia demonstrates another example of the lack of infrastructure here. It comes in the shape of a “power ship” anchored along the city of Banjul’s shoreline. We’ve seen a few of these in this corner of the world. The 36 MW Karadeniz Powership Koray Bey uses low Sulphur Heavy Fuel Oil (HFO) to generate electricity for the area.

We hope that the suddenly mandatory $155 visa per person for our 8-hour stay helps in some way. Some think it was pure extortion. A small local shuttle bus bounced us on dusty, dirty roads to a handicrafts market. Perhaps it was the nearly 100-degree heat and humidity or maybe it was the other conditions present, but most passengers (including us) never got off the shuttle, using it as a means for a quick but poignant tour.

In the morning of our arrival to Dakar, Senegal, the Captain announced that our visit had now been changed to be a service call only, due to Civil unrest. Local and World News coverage reported that local police were using tear gas and stun grenades to disperse political protesters.   No one would be going ashore.  The ship awaited eight 40-foot containers that never arrived. Apparently, authorities were trying to extort money for their arrival. Holland America Line said they would not engage in bribery. Our ship sailed in the morning, for the Canary Islands. More to come…. 

Reflecting on our fascinating time in Africa, I recently read this quote by Mae Chevrette:

“It is in all of us to defy expectations, to go into the world and to be brave, and to want, to need, to hunger for adventures. To embrace the chance and risk so that we may breathe and know what it is to be free.”

Since leaving Perth, Australia, our 3,900-mile westward track crosses the vast Indian Ocean during Cyclone Season.  We were fortunate that Cyclone Enala passed north of our route, but a more intense and exceptionally long-lived Cyclone Freddy has been churning for 5 weeks. Aboard the Zuiderdam, there is much conjecture of whether we will/will not be able to visit Madagascar in a weeks’ time.  The captain has been closely monitoring Freddy and providing daily updates. In the meantime, we have two ports on our schedule before we reach Madagascar: the islands of Mauritius and Reunion.

The Republic of Mauritius is an almost 800 square mile island in the Indian Ocean and the only known habitat of the extinct dodo, a flightless bird.  

Located 1200 nautical miles southeast of the African continent, it has a predominately West Indian and African influence.  English is the predominate language, but Creole and French are still spoken. Their most common places of worship are ornately decorated Hindu temples, but there are also Christian churches and Muslim mosques. 

Tourism may be their coastal source of economy, but textiles and sugar support the rest of the island.  It’s a volcanic island with dramatic, steep mountains.  The volcanic rock is widely used; pulverized and reconstituted as building and street construction material. 

We dock in Port Louie, an industrial port and a popular mooring field for at least 40 large Chinese fishing vessels, all rafted together.  

While the island boasts magnificent beaches, posh resorts and scuba diving, we sought to go see the ‘real life’ Mauritius first, since we’ve never visited here.   It’s a wild mix of battered, run-down buildings as well as newer districts with modern high rises. The most unique was a bank building that may have found its inspiration from an old cyclops horror movie.

We’ll begin 30 minutes away in Curepipe, the second largest city.  The drive and views from its elevation give us a panoramic view of their environment, tempo and livelihood of life on the island. For instance, they are known for their intricate and sometimes elaborate model ship building.  Diamond jewelry factories are also found here.

Travellers can learn a lot about any culture by visiting their central market.  Always fascinating.

Common local snacks are bhujia, a crunchy and crispy deep-fried Indian savory dry snack made by using boiled grated potatoes, chickpea flour, and essential spices.  Also popular are bouchon dumplings, typically pork in wonton wrappers.  

The market offers cooked foods, produce, clothing, shoes, backpacks, fabric, woven goods and jewelry, all from tightly packed stalls.

In stark contrast to the central market, the modern Caudan Waterfront shopping plaza back in Port Louis is filled with cafes and restaurants, including a Pizza Hut.

After a long day visiting Mauritius, Zuiderdam casts off her lines and we settled into a lounge chair on Deck 3 to watch our sunset departure.  With full bellies from dinner, we remained until the moon had risen, listening to the swish of the wake against her hull before retiring to our cabin.  We will push 175 miles through the night and awaken as we approach Reunion Island.

Once alongside the pier in La Possession, Reunion Island and the ship is cleared by Customs, we proceed to a shuttle bus that will take us 12 kilometers to the neighboring town of Saint Denis.  Part of which is a 7-kilometer bridge, which appears to have been built within the last 10 years.  Impressively engineered, as well as the levees that protect it. 

Reunion is part of the European Union and while considered a sister island to Mauritius, it couldn’t be more different.  It’s cleaner for one and appears to have a more stable infrastructure. 

Many well-preserved historic buildings, beautifully shaded squares and parks, central market, pedestrian mall of several blocks with many shoe, clothing and jewelry shops, cafes and restaurants.  

We snacked on a crusty French baguette sandwich and bought some lovely cheese from a local la fromagerie.

Our 5-mile walk gave us a good feel for this quaint town on lovely Reunion Island. Someday, we may have to visit again to explore the rest of this volcanic island which is 40% national park.

Unfortunately, Cyclone Freddy dashed our hopes of visiting Madagascar. Forecasters have been astonished by Freddy’s persistence and lack of movement. Cyclone Freddy has earned the designation as both the longest-lasting and highest-ACE-producing (Accumulated Cyclone Energy) tropical cyclone ever recorded worldwide. The captain altered our course southward to avoid the highest winds and seas. The yellow boat in the chart below represented our original intended course around the southern tip of Madagascar, while the red boat shows our altered course. We gave Freddy a wide berth, and therefore, felt only moderate winds and seas.

And so, we set a new course for Maputo, Mozambique on the African continent. More to come…

Welcome to Australia!   The largest island and the smallest continent.

Zuiderdam sailed three days from Wellington, New Zealand to Sydney, Australia.  It was still dark when we maneuvered into Sydney Harbor, past the Opera House and beneath the Harbor Bridge.  A stunning sight at any hour.  We are so glad to be here for two days. 

Since having laser surgery 3 weeks ago in Tahiti to repair a torn retina, I’ve been quite anxious to receive my follow up appointment here in Sydney to confirm that all is well.    As soon as the authorities cleared our ship’s arrival, we made our way through customs and immigration, then straight out to the shuttle buses that take us from the White Bay Cruise Terminal, over the Anzac Bridge and into downtown Sydney, dropping us off in Darling Harbor.   Armed with the address of the ophthalmologist office, we head uphill to Macquarie Street, about a 20-minute walk.  It’s an overcast cool morning and we arrive at their offices in Park House at 10am. Within 40 minutes, I had my eyes dilated and awaited The Professor, as he was referred to by staff.  Dr. Gilles has almost an entire alphabet behind his name proclaiming all his accomplishments.  All I needed to know was that he was a retinal specialist, who was about to give my eyes a thorough going over.  He determined that all was in order, the laser surgery had sealed well and that I should not be concerned for the rest of the trip.  The floaters, however, would likely remain.  I breathed an enormous sigh of relief at this fantastic news!

As we left the doctor’s office, the wind picks up and rain moves in.  We sought refuge in the conveniently discovered Bavarian Pub for celebration beers and traditional brotzeitteller (luncheon plate), complete with leberwurst, ham, brie, pickles, radishes, mustard and crusty bread.  Rotkraut (red cabbage) on the side.  German cuisine is comfort food to me and seemed just what the doctor ordered, as it poured outside our window seat. 

Plates emptied, glasses drained, rain abated, and dilated eyes returning to normal, we head back into the wet city streets.   We strolled back to the ship for one of the best naps I’ve had in a month, not having to worry about my eyeballs anymore!  Yeah, maybe the German beer and food helped too.

Abundant sunshine fills the morning sky as we head out to explore Day 2 in Sydney. Having visited the Opera House on a previous trip, we head towards North Sydney to walk the neighborhood, then over the Harbour Bridge, through The Rocks, back to Darling Harbor.    A fun day of sightseeing, café rests and chats with locals along the way.    

A fantastic sail-away with great weather and a festive crowd listening to live music on the aft deck.

Everyone stayed well after sunset, when a thunderstorm chases us all inside for a late dinner and finally, to bed after a long day. 

Meanwhile, the Zuiderdam strikes out into the night for our next port of call.  Since leaving Ft. Lauderdale, we’ve now sailed 10,737 nautical miles.

It’s early morning when we anchor.  The placid water is like a mirror, reflecting the hills of tall trees.  Pines scent the air.  It’s quiet.  You could almost imaging yourself on an inland lake in Minnesota.  But no…Welcome to Tasmania.

We step ashore into the beautiful Port Arthur’s Historical site.  In contrast to its serenity, this place also has a dark past, as unfortunate inmates found themselves here in the 1800’s.  Now on the World Heritage List, visitors may wander the penal colony ruins.  

Aside from being known for the infamous Tasmanian Devil, did you know that Tasmania is also home to lavender and wineries? We toured a lovely Lavender Farm and learned about the cultivation, harvesting and production of the fragrant flower into their many products, including soap and sachets.  We were also treated to a delicious tea where scones were served with lavender butter, cream and jam.  Even lavender chocolate!

The owner of Bream Creek Winery was also on hand to tell us about the local varietals.  The Tasmanian’s east coast soil and cool climate are perfect conditions for crisp white wines and pinot noir. 

Blustery winds kick up as we arrived to see the tessellated pavement, a natural wonder named for the tiled-like appearance of the rocks along the water.  Made up mostly of siltstone that formed about 300 million years ago, the shoreline rocks were fractured by the movement of the Earth and resulted in what is called jointing.  Jointing itself is not incredibly uncommon, but the presence of salt crystals and consistent erosion by the Tasman Sea’s waves and sediment deepened the pattern to give it its startling appearance.  

By our afternoon departure, the sun returns and we are blessed with some gorgeous scenic cruising around to the south and west, onward to Cape Raoul for the stunning views of 1,000 foot cliffs eroded by time, wind and waves.

From Port Arthur, it’s only a few hours sail into Hobart, Tasmania and we dock at 8pm.  It just so happens to be the Australian Wooden Boat Festival this weekend, and we are the beneficiaries of a spectacular display of tall ships, schooners, skiffs and dinghy’s.  Some are over 100 years old, some brand new, and everything else in between. 

As Zuiderdam will overnight here, we have the chance to walk the docks after dinner.  It’s no secret that boaters are a friendly sort.  And as such, it’s no surprise that owner Tony Lovely and his crew invite us aboard after we were oogle-ing his trawler from the dock.  The five of us chew on sea stories for an hour or more, before we bid them goodnight.  They would be heading back to Brisbane the next day. 

Even though it’s a Sunday night, tomorrow is a national holiday here, which gives festival-goers the stamina to continue celebrating.   By the time we strolled into the fest pavilion, the rock band, food trucks, and local breweries were all going strong to entertain attendees.  

On Day 2 of our visit, we meandered more docks and displays of the Wooden Boat Festival.  The varnished surfaces of all the various wooden watercraft were gleaming in the warm sunshine. 

Further beyond the bustling waterfront, we discover that Hobart’s spotless downtown shines with interesting architecture, parks and places of interest.  Overall, Tasmania was such a delightful surprise!

After one sea day of 768 miles, we arrive in Adelaide, South Australia mid-afternoon.  Since we are not leaving here until 10:30pm tomorrow night, we have plenty of time in this city of 1.2 million people.

A 40-minute train ride takes us from the industrial Outer Harbor and transitions through a variety of neighborhood styles, suburbs, shopping areas, corporate parks.

As we pull into the downtown Adelaide Railway Station, we are surrounded by the grand architecture that this city is known for.  Each building is more stunning than the one before, both inside and out. 

On the wide, tree-lined boulevard of North Terrace, we spent the afternoon between the State Library, the South Australian Museum, and the Art Gallery.  It’s a lovely, sunny day of 85-degrees.

It’s always a safe bet to ask a college student where the best pizza might be found.  She replied, “Oh you have an accent….where are you from?!”  After exchanging pleasantries, she indeed directed us to a fabulous sidewalk pizza restaurant a few blocks away, where we could sit and watch the bustle of Adelaide.  Along the way, there are always interesting signs to read:

On Day 2, we strike out in the morning to get a “flat white” coffee. Supposedly originating in Australia in the 1980’s, customers were tired of fluffy cappuccinos and seeking an espresso drink with thinner milk and less foam. Popular with good reason!

After coffee, we locate the Central Market.  Vast but organized booths hold every imaginable gastronomic delight, which also makes it the perfect place for lunch. And for some of our beloved Zuiderdam crew who favor fruits, we bought avocados and mangos.  Others have a penchant for Doritos.  We’re happy to bring back bundles of these treats for crew, as often they do not have the opportunity to go ashore. 

Leaving the Market, we make our way past older architecture, as well as pass through colorful and fragrant Chinatown.  Then Rundell Mall and Hindley Street; pedestrian streets brimming with specialty shops, arcades, pharmacies, and even an urban K-mart. 

The afternoon temperature rose to a dry heat of 103 degrees.  Tuckered out, hot and thirsty, we sought refuge in a Belgian Pub for a flight of Chimay…thank you, Monks, for your fine brewing expertise!   And speaking of hydration, these were posted in most public restrooms across the city:

Kangaroo Island lies 54 miles off Adelaide, on the southern coast of Australia.   It’s a large island with small towns and over a third of the island is protected nature reserves.  Zuiderdam anchors off Penneshaw and we tender in to spend the day in this charming village. 

Our 20-minute tender ride gives us a beautiful perspective of the coastline, which is rimmed with menacing, serrated rocks that have been the cause of a long history of shipwrecks.  It’s a shame that those ships missed the ¼ mile white sand beach that surely was their intended target.  But the jagged shore has also provided a home to seals, penguins and cormorants.

Ashore, we’re greeted by extremely friendly locals who dispense maps, offer highlights and we stroll the park-like setting.   After yesterday’s 103-degree temperature, we are surprised by the 70 degrees we have today.   Warm sunshine, with a cool breeze. 

About a dozen local artisans have set up tents with their handmade arts, honey, opal jewelry, textiles and baskets.  The Kangala Wildlife Rescue is on-hand, accepting donations to aid orphaned or injured kangaroos in rehab. An acoustic guitarist provides entertainment and parents, kids, dogs and tourists seem to all meld together in shopping and conversation. 

The interior of the island is gently rolling grassland, where kangaroos are free to roam.  We came across one while strolling through the sculpture park. 

The adjacent shoreline boasts a beautiful broad sandy beach, clear blue water.  Unfortunately, the water temp is only 60-degrees.  

After our 5-mile walkabout, we quench our thirst at the Penneshaw Restaurant & Pub and are joined by a few fellow passengers before returning to the ship.  Another wonderful port!   

After dinner, Australian comedian Jim Short was onboard to give us some good laughs before bedtime.  We are very happy to have 3 sea days now to catch up with laundry, emails and journaling, as well as planning for our next ports of call. 

Awakened early to watch our arrival into the port of Freemantle, Australia at 6am.   

This port is an eerie déjà vu for the 483 passengers aboard (us included), who were feeling a great deal of apprehension as we approached this port on March 21, 2020.  This was the port of disembarkation for us when the Covid 19 Pandemic caused worldwide travel to halt, and yet we were about to begin a 34-hour journey back home.  But not this time.  This time, we would be able to stay and explore Freemantle and her sister city, Perth for the next two days.  The two cities are just 12 miles apart and have completely different personalities.

The Freemantle train station is just a 10-minute walk from our ship, and we jump on a clean and modern train for the 40-minute ride into Perth. 

Transiting various neighborhoods gives us a good sense of their homes, shopping centers and places of business.  If we didn’t know better, it could easily have been the U.S., as we passed by Dunkin Donuts, KFC’s, Aldi’s, etc.

The Perth railway station is bustling with 9 tracks, yet we easily navigate our exit onto the main street of a modern city. 

Numerous and vast pedestrian street shopping malls throughout the urban layout, include many high-end, pedigree stores: Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, etc, as well as old world markets and arcades.

Getting around is a snap, as both Perth and Freemantle offer free bus routes.  We rode several giving us a good overview, then went back to the areas we wanted to further explore.

We came across His Majesty’s Theater, with its extraordinary façade; it beckoned a peek inside.  We were welcomed by volunteers who were eager to offer us a tour of this magnificent building and theater.

The waterfront area of Elizabeth Quay is sprawling and clean. Ferry boats offer tours of Swan River or even further out to Rottnest Island.  

Amidst the city are vast green spaces including Stirling Park, the Supreme Court Gardens, Kings Park and Botanic Gardens just to name a few. A beautiful and inviting city.

On our second day in port, we focus on discovering Freemantle (or Frio as it’s known to its locals). It has a much more laid-back vibe. 

This college town is filled with artisans, bookstores, shops and cafes.  There’s even a street referred to as Cappuccino Strip.  Warm and sunny, everyone is out enjoying the day. 

The town is filled with ornately decorated and beautifully maintained historical buildings and hotels. And of course, we couldn’t leave “Frio” without checking out their massive marina and promenade.

We are so relieved to be leaving Freemantle by ship (this time).  It sure feels like redemption for our ill-fated, covid-impacted departure in 2020 when we were police-escorted by bus to the airport.

We now head west in the Indian Ocean for 8 days towards Mauritius and Reunion Islands. 

The bolt of lightning that struck the ship along with the simultaneous clap of thunder sounded like an explosion.  It was a direct hit to the M.S. Zuiderdam.  Within 15 minutes, the Captain and crew announced that the assessed damage was limited to a redundant radio antenna, as well as a shattered windowpane in the roof of the pool lanai.  We had just moored in Fuerte Amador, having completed our day-long, northwestward transit of the Panama Canal.  After a pristine day of scenic cruising, a strong, isolated weather front moved through swiftly, leaving its mark on the Zuiderdam. 

But I should begin from the start of our voyage.  On January 3^rd, Tom and I boarded Holland America Line’s ship, the M. S. Zuiderdam, for a 128-day circumnavigation of the world.  The itinerary takes us through the Panama Canal, South Pacific islands, New Zealand and Australia, then follows the South and West African coastline northward to Morocco, into the Mediterranean and European coast before turning east towards the Azores, back across the Atlantic and returning to Ft. Lauderdale May 3^rd.   A dizzying itinerary of 30 countries and 61 ports (with 7 overnight ports), traveling almost 35,000 nautical miles before reaching U.S. soil once again. 

Built in 2002, the Zuiderdam is considered one of Holland America’s smaller ships, at 936 feet long, 105.8 feet wide and can carry almost 1,964 guests. The good news for us is that there will only be about 1,400 guests aboard and about 700 crew. 

After departing Fort Lauderdale, our first port of call was Falmouth, Jamaica, which lies on the north coast between Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.   This historical, gritty working port reaches back from the by-gone days of sugar plantations.   This small town was bustling on a Thursday morning, despite the drizzle.  We strolled past the manicured cruise ship pier, past the locals hawking tours on the perimeter and finally, into the streets of the ‘real’ town, where aromas of jerk chicken cooking on wood fires mingled among the ganja smoke in the humid air.   We strolled past simple wooden structures of humble homes, schools and churches.   We noticed a man with bucket up in a tree, picking Jamaican apples.  The woman across the street smoking a joint, offered us one (an apple, not a joint).  We declined her friendly offer. 

One sea day of travel brought us to Puerto Limon, on the east coast of Costa Rica.  It’s the seventh largest city, with a population of 55,000, whose community traces its roots to Italian, Jamaican and Chinese laborers who worked on a late nineteenth-century railroad project that connected San Jose to Puerto Limon. 

Despite the suburban shoreline, we found some wildlife hanging out in the trees in Vargas Park; a mom, dad and baby sloth, as well as a pair of owls. 

A bit further into town, the Saturday open-air Market was in full force and locals were going about their shopping; fresh fish being cleaned and cut on the street, fruit and vegetable stands (including breadfruit shown below), leather goods, backpack vendors, shoes, etc. 

We brushed off our rusty Spanish enough to find a small beach umbrella that would come in handy for the rest of our trip.  It’s always fun to have a treasure hunt in mind when going ashore and it gives us good fodder amongst the locals.  Yes, I have the Google Translator app loaded on my phone, but our Charades and Pictionary talents are much more enjoyable for both sides and leaves us all laughing. Upon our return to the ship, Tom set up his new umbrella by the aft deck pool and was immediately envied by other passengers, who are seeking lounge chair shade.  Apparently, the ship is expecting their shipment of new umbrellas sometime during our voyage, but no one could say when.  Tom being Tom, took matters into his own hands. 

Onward to the Panama Canal transit. We were awake early and stationed ourselves in “The Crows Nest” observation deck for prime viewing of the day-long transit that would take us beneath bridges, through winding channels, locks and lakes of this 50-mile engineering marvel. 

To begin, we pass beneath the Atlantic Bridge (completed in 2019), which spans the Atlantic entrance to the canal.  Then onto the Gatun Locks; three sets of double-lock chambers bring hulking ships almost 100 feet above the water, from the Caribbean Sea into the man-made Gatun Lake.   The lake encompasses 166 square miles and the surface sits at an elevation around 85 feet above sea level. 

From there, it’s through the Culebra Cut, an excavated gorge stretching more than 8 miles across the Continental Divide.  We are then lowered about 30 feet in the Pedro Miguel Locks, transit the small body of Miraflores Lake before descending another 54 feet in the Miraflores Locks. 

And lastly, we pass beneath the enormous Bridge of the Americas, that was completed in 1962 at a cost of $20 million. At 5,425 feet long (almost a mile), the bridge is a key part of the Pan-American highway. 

It’s late in the afternoon when the Zuiderdam finally moors in Fuerte Amador for the night.  The weather taking a swift turn, and the strong front brings driving rain, thunder and lightning that I described at the beginning of this post.  We’re all content to save exploration of Panama City for morning. 

The Zuiderdam now floats on Pacific waters, and we will set a WSW course for the Marquesas Islands, an 8-day crossing.   Stay tuned.