Leg 2: Easter & Pitcairn Islands

Rising out of a rainy dawn, looms the outline of Easter Island, or Rapa Nui as it is known to the islanders.

After sailing 2,200 nautical miles into the far reaches of the South Pacific, Zuiderdam hovers just offshore of the town of Hanga Roa, awaiting Customs & Immigration Officials to clear the ship.

The harbor waters appear deceptively calm, hiding the notorious ground swell that demand the Captains respect.   As he has warned in the days preceding, it is not wind or waves, but rather the swell that will make or break this port of call.  Without a pier on which to dock, Zuiderdam must tender her passengers to shore. And this island doesn’t offer much in the way of a protected harbor.  The ground swells can be anywhere from 4 feet or more depending on weather systems that push them from hundreds of miles away.  Captain Friso advises that the cutoff point is a rise of about 4 feet.  As we arrive, the swells are just scantily beneath that risk factor.  Despite using every fender and cushioning device available, the tenders slam mercilessly into Zuiderdam’s boarding platform during the slow and careful boarding process.  In years past, there have been injuries, so the boarding team and passengers alike are extremely cautious.

Surviving the tendering process, we step ashore dodging the red earthen puddles while it still drizzles.  We vet out several potential tour guides; most only speak Spanish, or they want a group of six or more.  Tom, Sheryl and I find a couple willing to take the 3 of us for a 6-hour tour.  

We begin at Dani and Toroko’s simple home, where he immediately plays ukelele and sings for us.  Then we all pile into their small car; the 3 of us in the back seat with Dani and ‘her man’ in front.  Dani explains that most locals don’t officially marry or divorce.  It’s more of a mutual union and understanding — as long as the happiness lasts.  If not, it’s on to a new mate. 

Originally a lawyer from Germany, Dani, 67, speaks English, German, Spanish and Nui.  Toroko, 59, was born on Rapa Nui and speaks only Nui and Spanish.  They met in 1985 when Dani came to the island for a motorbike vacation with her girlfriend.  They had a whirlwind romance, and a child was born.  She went back to Germany to finish her studies and earn her degree.  But it wasn’t long before she followed her heart back to an isolated island and a man who wanted her to simply stay home and relax.  Their daughter is now 38 and lives in Germany.  She once visited the island for a year to meet and get to know her father but has rarely returned.  Career opportunities are slim on this remote island.

We enjoy listening to their charismatic banter in Nui/Spanish and can see how much they enjoy each other, as well as this special island where they live.

Easter Island is the most intriguing Island I have ever seen. Mostly devoid of trees, except around the village and Anaka Beach.  Otherwise, the grasslands allow for an abundance of free-roaming cows and an estimated 6,000 horses that practically outnumber the inhabitants.  The population of the island is about 8,000 people, most stemming from three original clans. 

But the real spectacle of Easter Island are The Moai.  Over 900 of them!  These volcanic statues were carved between the years 1250 and 1500.  Standing between 10 to 33 feet high and weighing as much as 80 tons, most of these monoliths face inward from the sea to protect villages and their inhabitants.     

Rapa Nui offers a fascinating and sometimes dark history, not to mention the “how, what, why, and the entire engineering process of creating and moving moai;  all of which would be outside the bandwidth of this blog post.  But I do encourage you to look it up; you won’t be disappointed!  Notwithstanding, I can share our photos of today’s awe-inspiring scenes. 

We begin at the sacred place of Ahu Akivi  that features 7 identical moai statues which face exact sunset during the Spring Equinox and have their backs to the sunrise during the Autumn Equinox. This astronomical precision is only found at this location on the island.

We also found a team filming one of two contestants competing for Queen in the Tapati Rapa Nui Festival beginning 10 days from now.  https://www.easterisland.travel/easter-island-facts-and-info/tapati-rapa-nui-festival/

The site of Ahu Te Peu is home to the ruins of this Inca-style settlement which provides insights into the ancient way of life and culture of the Rapa Nui. 

Our next stop, Rano Raraku,is considered to be the volcanic quarry where 400 moai are strewn about, including many unfinished statues. 

Today, many of the 30-foot moai are only visible from 1/3 up, as the rest of the carving is buried due to wind shifting soil and sand.

Not on any other tour operator’s itinerary, is this cave along the coast where Toroko and his grandmother lived for 4 years.  He was about 8 years old at the time….a childhood’s dream playhouse!

Our next stop, Ahu Tongariki, is the site of the largest ceremonial platform on the Island, featuring 15 majestic moai statues.  

Pu’o Hiro is the “trumpet stone”  Approximately 4 feet high, it features a hole when blown sounds like a horn.  Its use is not well defined, but Dani calls it, “The Newspaper of the Island”, as locals use it to declare ceremonies, or hail to the Gods asking for good fishing.  

Other artifacts on the island include the Pava Vaka petroglyphs.

Rapa Nui’s coastline is predominantly rocky, which makes Anakena Beach even more alluring.  Nestled at the edge of a coconut grove, its powdery white sand flows into the calm, crystal-clear turquoise water.   Ahu Ature Huki, a single moai who is one of the few to be looking out towards to sea.  

The nearby group of seven moai, Ahu Nau Nau, look inward. 

Taking a refreshment break of pisco sours, we are lucky to be here at the same time as one of the Holland America tours that included a traditional dance performance. 

Returning to the village of Hanga Roa, we view the last stands of moai and say goodbye to our wonderful tour guides (and now friends), Dani and Toroko. 

Any number of hours spent on Easter Island would be special enough, so we are ecstatic that Zuiderdam had the rare opportunity to remain overnight and allow an extra day to explore.  That’s truly a gift!   It’s Christmas (er, Easter) in January!!

We had a leisurely second day poking in the shops and cafes of the small village.  Our 5-mile walkabout yielded a couple t-shirts and small moai souvenirs for the crew who weren’t able to come ashore themselves. 

Back aboard at 3pm for a sunny sail-away social on the aft deck. As the island disappears in our wake, we bid her ‘lorana’….goodbye in Rapa Nui.

As we venture further westward in the southern hemisphere, we are hastily making up time. Not in speed, but in clock changes.  We will turn our clocks back one hour for each of the next 5 consecutive days.  The upside to awakening well before sunrise, is that it affords us a spectacular dark sky, including the Southern Cross constellation.  With no ambient light to obscure even the smallest stars, the entire sky is a dome of glitter down to the horizon in every direction.  A breath-taking celestial display of nebulas, star clusters and the Milky Way are all in their splendor.  Being it January 25, the notable planet parade of Mars, Jupiter, Uranus (dim) and Venus also made an appearance. Worth getting up for!

Pitcairn Island lies another 1,300 miles west of Easter Island. The island is bathed in the morning light as we approach at 6am. 

The captain positions the ship off Adamstown, the only settlement on the island.   Zuiderdam hovers in place via her Azi pods, just 400 yards from shore.  It’s a stunning sight. 

While the ancient Polynesians were the first to discover and abandon Pitcairn Island, it may be best known as the place where the HMS Bounty crashed and burned many years later.  Fletcher Christian led the mutiny that doomed the ship, but he and John Adams founded a community that still remains today.  In fact, all but 8 of the 43 inhabitants are descendants of the mutineers.

With no harbor or dock for the ship’s tenders, about a dozen residents will come aboard Zuiderdam via their longboat.  They will bring aboard their wonderful handicrafts to sell, as well as fresh fish and produce to trade with us for the important stuff: chocolate, wine, ice cream and toilet paper! 

We were previously here in 2019 and 2020, and I had purchased a carved wooden platter from Andrew, who is the 7^th generation grandson of Christian Fletcher. This time, I selected a coconut wood server that he brought aboard which his mother had carved.

The Mayor of Pitcairn also gave a slideshow presentation, followed by a Q & A of what it’s like living on a remote island with 42 other people. 

Some points of interest: 

• The oldest resident, Royal, is 96;  the youngest is 14.  There are 3 children in their elementary school at present.  But for higher education, they go to New Zealand. 
• Their supply boat comes once every 3-4 months, bringing everything from New Zealand.  Of the maybe 12 cruise ships that are scheduled per year, less are met with weather that even allows them to visit.
• Their infrastructure is supported by the British Overseas Territory for aid (and not much at that).  Property is available for rent from the government, but not actually charged.  However, you must establish need in which to qualify.
• They’ve had internet for 15 years, and now Starlink has improved their experience.  
• A transient doctor and nurse will come for 2-3 months at a time.  But dental and major medical treatments require a trip to Tahiti or New Zealand (a minimum of a 2 day boat ride). 

These are indeed a resourceful, resilient and adaptable people! If you are interested in visiting Pitcairn, you may learn more here: https://www.visitpitcairn.pn/

Easter and Pitcairn Islands may be the best kept secrets in the vastness of the South Pacific, but well worth the journey!

Next stop, Tahiti…..